Advanced Clinicals Plant Based Collagen Multi-Lift Moisturizer Versus Advanced Clinicals Encapsulated Retinol Rapid Wrinkle Rewind Cream

Advanced Clinicals Plant Based Collagen Multi-Lift Moisturizer Versus Advanced Clinicals Encapsulated Retinol Rapid Wrinkle Rewind Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Dimethicone

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Oryza Sativa Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycine Max Seed Extract

Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract

Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Glucosamine Hcl

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Carbomer

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Ascorbic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Tocopherol

Maltodextrin

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Hexylene Glycol

Citric Acid

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Dimethicone, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Oryza Sativa Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Glucosamine Hcl, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Carbomer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Ascorbic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Tocopherol, Maltodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Phosphate

Cetyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Retinol

Ferulic Acid

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-37

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Copernicia Cerifera Cera

Sodium Cocoamphoacetate

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Tocopheryl Acetate

Synthetic Beeswax

BHT

Xanthan Gum

BHA

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Linalool

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Retinol, Ferulic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-37, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Propanediol, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Synthetic Beeswax, BHT, Xanthan Gum, BHA, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Linalool

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.

Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:

Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Extract comes from the common sunflower.

Sunflowers are rich in vitamin E. Studies show sunflowers contain antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

The fatty acids found in sunflowers include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.

These fatty acids hydrate your skin. Emollients create a film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.

Hexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.

It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.

As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.

Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.

This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.

A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.

This ingredient has moisturizing properties due to its components of polysaccharides and omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains calcium, selenium, phosphorus, iron, and zinc.

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract contains numerous antioxidants such as ferulic acid. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.

The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.

Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.

This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.

Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.

These compounds protect your skin two ways:

1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin. 2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.

Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil (aka marula oil) is a skin hydrating ingredient.

Its fatty acid profile is dominated by oleic acid (~69%), palmitic acid (~15%), linoleic acid (~9%), and palmitoleic acid (~4%).

These fatty acids are very similar to those naturally found in the epidermis, making this oil biomimetic; basically, your skin recognizes it.

Clinical testing found this ingredient to be moisturizing and non-irritating, with noteworthy effects on reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Besides fatty acids, marula oil is also rich in oxidative stabilizers like vitamin E, vitamin C precursors, and polyphenols. This gives it excellent shelf stability compared to most facial oils.

This is a great ingredient for dry, dull, or barrier-compromised skin.

Just know it may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fatty acids can as as a food source for the Malassezia yeast.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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