APRILSKIN Artemisia Squalane Hydra Gel Cream Versus KLAVUU Blue Pearlsation One Day 8 Cups Marine Collagen Aqua Cream

APRILSKIN Artemisia Squalane Hydra Gel Cream Versus KLAVUU Blue Pearlsation One Day 8 Cups Marine Collagen Aqua Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Artemisia Vulgaris Extract and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Chondrus Crispus Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Artemisia Vulgaris Extract 80%

Water

Squalane 3%

Methylpropanediol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Cetearyl Olivate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Niacinamide

Sorbitan Olivate

Butylene Glycol

Trehalose

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Allantoin

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Fructooligosaccharides

Tromethamine

Adenosine

Pullulan

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Indigofera Tinctoria Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract

Ceramide NP

Myosotis Sylvatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Phytosphingosine

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

CI 75810

Artemisia Vulgaris Extract 80%, Water, Squalane 3%, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Cetearyl Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Niacinamide, Sorbitan Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Trehalose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Fructooligosaccharides, Tromethamine, Adenosine, Pullulan, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Indigofera Tinctoria Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract, Ceramide NP, Myosotis Sylvatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, CI 75810

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Plankton Extract

Sea Whip Extract

Jania Rubens Extract

Cyclopentasiloxane

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Hydrolyzed Pearl

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Dimethiconol

PEG-32

Panthenol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Polysorbate 60

Caprylyl Glycol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Parfum

CI 42090

Chondrus Crispus Extract, Plankton Extract, Sea Whip Extract, Jania Rubens Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Hydrolyzed Pearl, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Water, Dimethiconol, PEG-32, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Polysorbate 60, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, CI 42090

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

This ingredient is also called sugarcane extract. It is a moisturizing humectant and has skin soothing properties.

Similar to hyaluronic acid, sugarcane can attract moisture to your skin.

Glycolic acid is a derivative of sugarcane. While glycolic acid is an AHA with exfoliating properties, sugarcane is not an AHA.

A study from 2021 found the compounds in sugarcane extract to have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activity. The study also suggests these compounds can inhibit skin ageing enzymes and promote collagen synthesis.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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