ASIS-TOBE Marine Collagen 81 Serum Versus Dior Capture Totale C.E.L.L. ENERGY - Super Potent Age-Defying Intense Serum

ASIS-TOBE Marine Collagen 81 Serum Versus Dior Capture Totale C.E.L.L. ENERGY - Super Potent Age-Defying Intense Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Hydrolyzed Collagen 81%

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Sclerotium Gum

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Betaine

Trehalose

Panthenol

Benzyl Glycol

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Allantoin

Adenosine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Limonene

Hydrolyzed Collagen 81%, Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Sclerotium Gum, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Betaine, Trehalose, Panthenol, Benzyl Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Allantoin, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Limonene

Squalane

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Diglycerin

Lauroyl Lysine

PEG-8

Aframomum Angustifolium Seed Extract

Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract

Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Sodium Surfactin

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate

Xylitol

Palmaria Palmata Extract

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Boron Nitride

Caprylyl Glycol

Parfum

Chlorphenesin

Alcaligenes Polysaccharides

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

CI 14700

CI 60730

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Tocopherol

Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Alcohol, Propanediol, Betaine, Diglycerin, Lauroyl Lysine, PEG-8, Aframomum Angustifolium Seed Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Sodium Surfactin, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Adenosine, Xylitol, Trehalose, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Boron Nitride, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Parfum, Chlorphenesin, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, CI 14700, CI 60730, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopherol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.

In formulas, it:

Is it bad for your skin?

The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.

Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.

In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.

This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.

Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).

Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.

According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.

True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.

Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.

Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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