Collagen & Peptide NutritionNutrition and collagen guides

Nutrition guide

AXIS - Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum Versus Advanced Clinicals Complete 5-in-1 Eye Serum

AXIS - Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum Versus Advanced Clinicals Complete 5-in-1 Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated ar

AXIS - Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum Versus Advanced Clinicals Complete 5-in-1 Eye Serum

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Adenosine

Collagen

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-9

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Prunus Mume Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Ceramide NP

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Butylene Glycol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

C13-14 Alkane

Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer

C15-23 Alkane

Ethylhexylglycerin

Decyl Glucoside

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Tocopherol

Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Adenosine, Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C13-14 Alkane, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, C15-23 Alkane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Decyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Tocopherol

Isopropyl Myristate

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Retinol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Ferulic Acid

Colloidal Gold

Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Glycine Max Seed Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Glycine Soja Oil

Honey Extract

Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum

Avena Sativa Bran Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Polyurethane Crosspolymer-1

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Benzoate

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Hexylene Glycol

Water, Isopropyl Myristate, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Retinol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ferulic Acid, Colloidal Gold, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Honey Extract, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Polyurethane Crosspolymer-1, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.

The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.

Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

SUPPLEMENTAL FIELD FILE

Notes to carry forward.

Source-derived references linked through this guide’s public topic markers.

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REFERENCE CARDS

Ingredients, lists & structured values

INGREDIENT LIST

The Pro Co. 5.5% Hyaluronic Acid Complex With Vegan CollagenIngredients explained

  • Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  • It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  • Expand to read more
  • Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  • One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  • Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved.
  • It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula.
  • It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) fou…
  • As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodiu…
  • In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, b…
  • What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate and cheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists.
  • If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid (including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature).
  • Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a variation of current IT moisturizer, Hyaluronic acid, where some water-loving -OH groups are replaced by amphipathic (partly water-loving and partly water-hating) acetyl groups. The modified molecule is claimed to have even …
  • The better affinity comes from the acetyl groups that act as tiny "anchors" to attach the HA molecule to the skin. Staying on top of the skin better and longer means longer-lasting surface hydration and improved elasticity. It is also less sticky and more cos…
  • It's a special "cross-linked" from of IT-moisturizer, hyaluronic acid (HA). Cross-linked means that "normal" HA pieces (1-2 million Da molecular weight) are chemically bound togeather to create a big, "infinite" mesh.
  • The special HA mesh has a remarkable water-binding capacity, 5 times more than the already crazy water-binding capacity of "normal" HA. This water filled crosslinked HA gel forms a smooth film on the skin and continuously delivers the bound water, so it gives…
  • Btw, crosslinking HA was developed for dermal fillers (as crosslinking helps their longevity), and this guy is the topical version of FDA approved dermal filler called Hylan B gel. Smearing crosslinked version all over ourselves is a newish thing, and incomin…
  • A very recent, 2016 research article compared the topical moisturizing effect of crosslinked HA (not Hylan B gel specifically, but something called Resilient HA or RHA), HMW-HA and LMW-HA and found that "TEWL (that is trans-epidermal water loss, the water tha…
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PROVISION SHELF

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