AXIS - Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum Versus Isntree TW - Real Eye Cream

AXIS - Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum Versus Isntree TW - Real Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Adenosine

Collagen

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-9

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Prunus Mume Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Ceramide NP

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Butylene Glycol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

C13-14 Alkane

Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer

C15-23 Alkane

Ethylhexylglycerin

Decyl Glucoside

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Tocopherol

Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Adenosine, Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C13-14 Alkane, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, C15-23 Alkane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Decyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Tocopherol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Dipropylene Glycol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Squalane

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Dimethicone

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Arachidyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Cetearyl Alcohol

C12-16 Alcohols

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Behenyl Alcohol

Erythritol

Polysorbate 60

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Arachidyl Glucoside

Palmitic Acid

Allantoin

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Isohexadecane

Persea Gratissima Oil

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Polysorbate 80

Disodium EDTA

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Sorbitan Oleate

Glucose

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Sodium Phosphate

Pentylene Glycol

Deoxyphytantriyl Palmitamide Mea

Polysorbate 20

Cholesterol

Lecithin

Phosphatidylcholine

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Astaxanthin

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Squalane, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, C12-16 Alcohols, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Erythritol, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Stearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Arachidyl Glucoside, Palmitic Acid, Allantoin, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Persea Gratissima Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Adenosine, Polysorbate 80, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Ceramide NP, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Glucose, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Phosphate, Pentylene Glycol, Deoxyphytantriyl Palmitamide Mea, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20, Cholesterol, Lecithin, Phosphatidylcholine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Astaxanthin, Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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