Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin Ultimate Anti-Aging Cream Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Morning Matrix

Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin Ultimate Anti-Aging Cream Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Morning Matrix

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Butylene Glycol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Arachidyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Dimethicone

Behenyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Carbomer

Propanediol

Oryza Sativa Hull Powder

Arachidyl Glucoside

Tocopheryl Acetate

Chlorphenesin

Mica

CI 77891

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Vp/Va Copolymer

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Parfum

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Isomalt

Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract

Algae Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Hydrolyzed Beta-Glucan

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Phenethyl Alcohol

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Buddleja Davidii Leaf Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract

Diacetyl Boldine

Calcium Gluconate

Gluconolactone

Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract

Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract

Citric Acid

Linalool

Lecithin

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract

Disodium Phosphate

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Propanediol, Oryza Sativa Hull Powder, Arachidyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chlorphenesin, Mica, CI 77891, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Vp/Va Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Parfum, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Isomalt, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, Algae Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Beta-Glucan, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Buddleja Davidii Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract, Diacetyl Boldine, Calcium Gluconate, Gluconolactone, Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Citric Acid, Linalool, Lecithin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract, Disodium Phosphate

Vegetable Oil

Squalane

Octyldodecanol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Beheneth-25

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Benzoic Acid

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Disodium EDTA

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Rhizobian Gum

Dehydroacetic Acid

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Plankton Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Caramel

Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil

Tocopherol

Xanthan Gum

Collagen Amino Acids

Caprylyl Glycol

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Menthol

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Glyceryl Caprylate

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Phenylpropanol

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Hydroxyproline

Proline

Alanine

Lysine

Serine

Threonine

Geraniol

Water, Glycerin, Vegetable Oil, Propanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Squalane, Octyldodecanol, Butylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Beheneth-25, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzoic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Disodium EDTA, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Chlorphenesin, Plankton Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Caramel, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Collagen Amino Acids, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Parfum, Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Menthol, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Phenylpropanol, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Hydroxyproline, Proline, Alanine, Lysine, Serine, Threonine, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).

Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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