bondi sands Sweet Dreams Night Moisturiser Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen OverNight Matrix Cream

bondi sands Sweet Dreams Night Moisturiser Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen OverNight Matrix Cream

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Benzyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Sodium Citrate

Squalane

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Propanediol

Dehydroacetic Acid

Erythritol

Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Davidsonia Jerseyana Fruit Extract

Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract

Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract

Potassium Sorbate

Tocopherol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Water, Glycerin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Sodium Citrate, Squalane, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Propanediol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Erythritol, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Davidsonia Jerseyana Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Olus Oil

Behenyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Octyldodecanol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Beheneth-25

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Benzoic Acid

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Disodium EDTA

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Rhizobian Gum

Linalool

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Geraniol

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Chlorphenesin

Plankton Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Citronellol

Sodium Benzoate

Caramel

Cinnamomum Camphora Wood Oil

Limonene

Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil

Caprylyl Glycol

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Parfum

Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract

Menthol

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Sodium Hydroxide

Glyceryl Caprylate

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Phenylpropanol

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Water, Glycerin, Olus Oil, Propanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Beheneth-25, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Benzoic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Disodium EDTA, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Linalool, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Geraniol, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Chlorphenesin, Plankton Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Caramel, Cinnamomum Camphora Wood Oil, Limonene, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Parfum, Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Menthol, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Phenylpropanol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Dehydroacetic Acid is a synthetic preservative that keeps your products safe from microbes.

As an organic acid, it penetrates microbial cell walls and disrupts cellular metabolism. This makes it effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold.

It is effective at low concentrations (<0.6%). Clinical studies have found it to be non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-photosensitizing.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.

The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.

Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.

The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.

Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.

The fatty acids of grape seed oil give it emollient properties. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by creating a film. This film traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydrated.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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