Caudalie Premier Cru Anti Aging Cream Moisturizer with Hyaluronic Acid Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Rose Marine Cream

Caudalie Premier Cru Anti Aging Cream Moisturizer with Hyaluronic Acid Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Rose Marine Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract

Propanediol

Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract

Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract

Pentaerythrityl Distearate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Carbomer

Caprylyl Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Magnolia Grandiflora Bark Extract

Potassium Sorbate

Tocopherol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Adenosine

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Phytate

Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract

Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract

Parfum

Geraniol

Linalool

Citronellol

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Propanediol, Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract, Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Magnolia Grandiflora Bark Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adenosine, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Parfum, Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Isononyl Isononanoate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Dimethicone

Phenoxyethanol

Polyacrylate-13

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Coco-Caprylate

Rosa Hybrid Flower Water

Polyisobutene

Bentonite

Citric Acid

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Chlorphenesin

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Disodium EDTA

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Collagen Amino Acids

Benzyl Salicylate

Sodium Benzoate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Rosa Damascena Extract

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate, Rosa Hybrid Flower Water, Xanthan Gum, Polyisobutene, Bentonite, Parfum, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Chlorphenesin, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Collagen Amino Acids, Benzyl Salicylate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Rosa Damascena Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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