Caudalie Vinohydra Gel Moisturizer Versus Institut Esthederm Intensive Pro-Collagen+ Cream

Caudalie Vinohydra Gel Moisturizer Versus Institut Esthederm Intensive Pro-Collagen+ Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water

Isostearyl Isostearate

Octyldodecyl Myristate

Squalane

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Benzyl Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Cellulose Gum

Caprylyl Glycol

Vitis Vinifera Juice

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hydroxide

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sodium Phytate

Tocopherol

Citric Acid

Dehydroacetic Acid

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Squalane, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Benzyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Cellulose Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Vitis Vinifera Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Phytate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum

Diisopropyl Sebacate

Propanediol

C10-18 Triglycerides

Octyldodecanol

Cera Alba

Dipropylene Glycol

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

C12-16 Alcohols

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Xylose

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Hexapeptide-9

Butylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Palmitic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Mannitol

Sodium Citrate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Propylene Glycol

Sodium Lactate

Polysorbate 20

Eugenol

Carnosine

Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Mineral Salts

Water, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Glycerin, Propanediol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Octyldodecanol, Cera Alba, Dipropylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, C12-16 Alcohols, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Xylose, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hexapeptide-9, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Mannitol, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Citrate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Eugenol, Carnosine, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Mineral Salts

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cellulose Gum is a water-soluble polymer that comes from cellulose. It is used to change the texture of a product and to help stabilize emulsions.

As an emulsifier, cellulose gum specifically thicken the texture of water-based products.

This ingredient is considered hypoallergenic and non-toxic. Cellulose Gum can be found in cosmetics, food, and other household goods such as paper products.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Isostearyl Isostearate is a plant-based and vegan emollient ester made by reacting Isostearyl Alcohol and Isostearic Acid.

It helps improve how the product spreads on skin, acts as a binding agent for makeup powders without modifying pigment color, and softens skin while helping it hold onto water.

This ingredient is very interesting as a hydrator; most moisturizers are either occlusives, humectants, or emollients. Isostearyl isostearate works through another route named "internal occlusion" by the head researcher.

Isostearyl isostearate nudges the skin's own lipids into a denser, more tightly packed arrangement. Packing the deeper layers of the stratum corneum together more efficiently means less water is able to escape.

This is a barrier-improving mechanism that hadn't been described before and plastic occlusion stress tests confirmed it improved the skin's water-permeability barrier function

Just one thing worth noting from the same review: this ingredient increased the penetration rate of a test drug through excised human skin. Though this ingredient is not classified as a penetration enhancer, it does interact with the barrier rather than sitting totally inert on top.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids and esters in the C11-24 range. Since both halves of this molecules are C18, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Microcrystalline Cellulose is another name for refined wood pulp. It is used as an emulsifier and mattifying ingredient. As an emulsifier, it helps keep ingredients together.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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