Darphin Éclat Sublime Dual Rejuvenating Micro-Serum Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Rose Micro Serum

Darphin Éclat Sublime Dual Rejuvenating Micro-Serum Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Rose Micro Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil and Centella Asiatica Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Betaine

Pentylene Glycol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Butylene Glycol

Molasses Extract

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract

Olea Europaea Leaf Extract

Iris Florentina Root Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Tocopherol

Saccharomyces Lysate Extract

Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Lythrum Salicaria Extract

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Trehalose

Caprylyl Glycol

Caffeine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein

1,2-Hexanediol

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Carbomer

Sodium Hydroxide

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Citric Acid

Linalool

Parfum

Benzyl Salicylate

Limonene

Hexyl Cinnamal

Tocopheryl Acetate

BHT

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Chlorphenesin

CI 60725

CI 61565

Water, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Betaine, Pentylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Molasses Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Tocopherol, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Lythrum Salicaria Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trehalose, Caprylyl Glycol, Caffeine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, 1,2-Hexanediol, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Linalool, Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, CI 60725, CI 61565

Isononyl Isononanoate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Rose Extract

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Mica

Phenethyl Alcohol

CI 77891

Sodium Carrageenan

Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract

CI 77491

Collagen Amino Acids

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Maris Sal

Caesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract

Tin Oxide

Citronellol

Geraniol

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Isononyl Isononanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Parfum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Rose Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Mica, Phenethyl Alcohol, CI 77891, Sodium Carrageenan, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, CI 77491, Collagen Amino Acids, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Maris Sal, Caesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Tin Oxide, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Geraniol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Benzyl Salicylate is a solvent and fragrance additive. It is an ester of benzyl alcohol and salicylic acid. This ingredient can be naturally found in some plants and plant extracts.

In fragrances, Benzyl Salicylate may be a solvent or a fragrance component. In synthetic musk scents, it is used as a solvent. For floral fragrances such as lilac and jasmine, it is used as a fragrance component. The natural scent of Benzyl Salicylate is described as "lightly-sweet, slightly balsamic".

While Benzyl Salicylate has been associated with contact dermatitis and allergies, emerging studies show it may not be caused by this ingredient alone.

However, this ingredient is often used with fragrances and other components that may cause allergies. It is still listed as a known allergen in the EU. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.

Another study from 2021 shows Benzyl Salicylate may have anti-inflammatory properties.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil is from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant. It is a skin conditioning agent and emollient that sits on top of skin to soften and hydrate it.

Over 98% of the oil is made up of long-chain fatty acids, mostly aachidic acid (61%), docosenoic acid (~16%), and docosadienoic acid (~18%).

This combination is not really found in any other plant oil and is the reason this is one of the most stable botanical oils available.

Some studies show it to be more stable than jojoba oil, helps a product resist going rancid, and can help extend the shelf life of a formula.

It also naturally contains vitamin E and phytosterols that give it a mild antioxidant benefit.

This ingredient is typically used from around 1% to fairly high levels since it's gentle; it's well-tolerated and low on the irritation scale.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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