Derma E Universal Cleansing Balm Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm

Derma E Universal Cleansing Balm Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm

This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Lauryl Laurate

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Cetyl Alcohol

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil

Retinol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Polysorbate 20

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Parfum

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lauryl Laurate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetyl Alcohol, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 20, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Parfum

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

PEG-8 Beeswax

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Stearate

Sambucus Nigra Oil

PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

Silica

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax

Glycerin

Lecithin

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Linalool

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Geraniol

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Rosa Multiflora Flower Wax

Tocopherol

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Limonene

Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Menthol

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Citral

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-8 Beeswax, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sambucus Nigra Oil, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Silica, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax, Glycerin, Lecithin, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Linalool, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Geraniol, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Rosa Multiflora Flower Wax, Tocopherol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Limonene, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Parfum, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Menthol, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Citral, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

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