Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Deep Cream

Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Deep Cream

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This brightening treatment is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Squalane

Glycerin

Hexyldecanol

Propanediol

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Retinol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Santalum Album Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Oil

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

Abies Sibirica Oil

Tocopherol

Beta-Glucan

Caprylyl Glycol

BHT

Ceramide NP

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Palmitate

1,2-Hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polysorbate 60

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Hydroxystearic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Laureth-23

Trideceth-6 Phosphate

Sodium Hydroxide

Citric Acid

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Sodium Benzoate

Benzyl Alcohol

Linalool

Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Hexyldecanol, Propanediol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Abies Sibirica Oil, Tocopherol, Beta-Glucan, Caprylyl Glycol, BHT, Ceramide NP, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Hydroxystearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool

Butylene Glycol

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Dimethicone

Sucrose

Pentylene Glycol

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Collagen Amino Acids

Niacinamide

Carnitine Hcl

Hydroxyproline

Glycine

Carnitine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Saccharide Isomerate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Superoxide Dismutase

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Ubiquinone

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Lactobacillus Ferment

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Glycolic Acid

Lecithin

Biotin

Maltodextrin

Carbomer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ammonium Hydroxide

Potassium Hydroxide

Sodium Phytate

Sodium Citrate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Cananga Odorata Flower Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Rose Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Santalum Album Wood Extract

Triethyl Citrate

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Dimethicone, Sucrose, Pentylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Collagen Amino Acids, Niacinamide, Carnitine Hcl, Hydroxyproline, Glycine, Carnitine, Squalane, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Saccharide Isomerate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Superoxide Dismutase, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ubiquinone, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Lactobacillus Ferment, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Glycolic Acid, Lecithin, Biotin, Maltodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Rose Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Triethyl Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.

Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.

These compounds protect your skin two ways:

1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin. 2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.

Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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