Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum Versus Murad Cellular Hydration Repair Mask

Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum Versus Murad Cellular Hydration Repair Mask

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Trehalose and Carnosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This hydrating overnight mask is formulated around 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol and Linoleic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Pentylene Glycol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Glycerin

Propanediol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Trehalose

Oryza Sativa Bran Water

Butylene Glycol

Ethoxydiglycol

Triheptanoin

Arginine PCA

Diglycerin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Collagen Amino Acids

Glycine Soja Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil

Santalum Album Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

Tagetes Minuta Flower Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Phospholipids

Carnosine

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglutamic Acid

Glycolipids

Glycine Soja Sterols

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sclerotium Gum

Polyquaternium-80

Didecyldimonium Chloride

Dianthus Caryophyllus Flower Extract

Xanthan Gum

Methylpropanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Phytic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Pentylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Trehalose, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Triheptanoin, Arginine PCA, Diglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Collagen Amino Acids, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Tagetes Minuta Flower Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Carnosine, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglutamic Acid, Glycolipids, Glycine Soja Sterols, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sclerotium Gum, Polyquaternium-80, Didecyldimonium Chloride, Dianthus Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Phytic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Linalool

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Diisostearyl Malate

Glyceryl Behenate

4-T-Butylcyclohexanol

Linoleic Acid

Phytosterols

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Callus Extract

Urea

Yeast Amino Acids

Inositol

Taurine

Betaine

Jojoba Esters

Allantoin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Erythritol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglycerin-3

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Arachidyl Alcohol

Hectorite

Glyceryl Stearates

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Coco-Glucoside

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Arachidyl Glucoside

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Glucose

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Aspergillus Ferment

Chlorphenesin

Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Diisostearyl Malate, Glyceryl Behenate, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Phytosterols, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Callus Extract, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Tocopherol, Jojoba Esters, Allantoin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Arachidyl Alcohol, Hectorite, Glyceryl Stearates, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arachidyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glucose, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Aspergillus Ferment, Chlorphenesin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phospholipids are a family of skin-identical lipids that makeup the structural backbone of every cell membrane in your body.

In cosmetics, they function as skin conditioning agents with emulsifier and surfactant properties. They're typically sourced from soybean or sunflower lecithin (or sometimes egg yolk or marine sources).

Because they mirror the lipids naturally found in the deeper layers of your skin, topical phospholipids help reinforce the lipid matrix, reduce transepidermal water loss, and leave skin feeling conditioned.

They're also used to form liposomes, or tiny self-assembling vesible used to stabilize actives like vitamin c or retinol. This helps these ingredients integrate into the upper layers of skin more easily.

Phospholipids are compatible with everything and the CIR Expert Panel has concluded them to be safe at current use levels.

Some types of phospholipids include:

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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