Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Deep Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Intense Wrinkle Cream

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Deep Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Intense Wrinkle Cream

This brightening treatment is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging overnight mask is formulated around Bakuchiol and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Dimethicone

Sucrose

Pentylene Glycol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Collagen Amino Acids

Niacinamide

Carnitine Hcl

Hydroxyproline

Glycine

Carnitine

Squalane

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tocopherol

Saccharide Isomerate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Superoxide Dismutase

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Ubiquinone

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Lactobacillus Ferment

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Glycolic Acid

Lecithin

Biotin

Maltodextrin

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Carbomer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ammonium Hydroxide

Polysorbate 60

Potassium Hydroxide

Sodium Phytate

Sodium Citrate

Citric Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Cananga Odorata Flower Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Rose Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Santalum Album Wood Extract

Triethyl Citrate

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Dimethicone, Sucrose, Pentylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Collagen Amino Acids, Niacinamide, Carnitine Hcl, Hydroxyproline, Glycine, Carnitine, Squalane, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Saccharide Isomerate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Superoxide Dismutase, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ubiquinone, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Lactobacillus Ferment, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Glycolic Acid, Lecithin, Biotin, Maltodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Rose Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Triethyl Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Diisostearyl Malate

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Propylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Alcohol

Bakuchiol

Retinol

Ferulic Acid

Nephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Ceramide Ng

Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract

Silybum Marianum Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Jojoba Esters

Soy Isoflavones

Phospholipids

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ursolic Acid

Adenosine

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Glycine Soja Oil

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Lactic Acid

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tetrahydropiperine

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Ilomastat

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Diisostearyl Malate, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Bakuchiol, Retinol, Ferulic Acid, Nephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Ceramide Ng, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Jojoba Esters, Soy Isoflavones, Phospholipids, Saccharide Isomerate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ursolic Acid, Adenosine, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glycine Soja Oil, Tocopherol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Tetrahydropiperine, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Ilomastat, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as Tsubaki oil, or the fixed oil from the seeds of the Japanese camellia.

It's basically a fatty acid delivery system (~75-85% oleic acid) plus some minor extras like squalene, tocopherols, and phytosterols.

That profile makes it a classic emollient; it works by hanging out with the skin's surface lipids, softens, and slows down water loss.

The most cited study on it was done on skin cells in a dish where this oil got them to make more of the building blocks for collagen while also slowing down the enzyme that breaks collagen down. Researchers tested this on human skin too; it didn't cause irritation and helped skin hold onto moisture better.

Another study done on cells and mice found this oil quieted down some of the body's inflammation signals.

These studies are still small, early, and not done on humans, so it's best to think of this ingredient as a great supporting ingredient for the rest of your routine and not the main active.

Concentrations can range from 1-5% in serums to 100% as a single face oil (how it's most traditionally used).

Because this ingredient is a triglyceride of long-chain fatty acids, this ingredient may not be Malassezia safe.

Allergies to this protein are quite rare as the refined seed oil contains very little residual protein. Human irritation testing also came back clean. But it is a plant and as with any botanical ingredient, contact allergy is possible.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract comes from the bergamot orange.

Bergamot oranges contain antioxidants, dietary fiber, vitamins such as Vitamin C, and minerals.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

This ingredient comes from the lavender plant. It is used to add a scent or mask an unpleasant one in products.

Lavender contains linalool and linalyl acetate.

When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.

Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.

This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).

Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.

Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.

The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.

Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.

Saccharide Isomerate comes from sugars found in corn. It is a skin hydrator.

The structure of this ingredient can be altered to be more similar to the carbohydrates found in our skin. This ability to mimic our skin gives it hydrating properties.

Specifically, saccharide Isomerate is a humectant. Humectants draw moisture from the air to our skin.

Research shows Saccharide Isomerate to be an effective moisturizer.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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