Dr. Diamond's Metacine Instafacial Plasma Versus Hanskin Collagen Peptide Hydra Ampoule

Dr. Diamond's Metacine Instafacial Plasma Versus Hanskin Collagen Peptide Hydra Ampoule

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Collagen Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Glutamine

Copper Tripeptide-1

Raphanus Sativus Root Extract

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate

Sodium Glucuronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Phytate

Magnesium Sulfate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Lecithin

Citric Acid

Maltodextrin

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Glutamine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Sodium Glucuronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Phytate, Magnesium Sulfate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Citric Acid, Maltodextrin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

Collagen Extract

Niacinamide

Betaine

Glycereth-26

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Octapeptide-7

Sh-Decapeptide-7

Sh-Octapeptide-4

Sh-Oligopeptide-9

Sh-Pentapeptide-19

Pentapeptide-18

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hyaluronic Acid

Potassium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Extensin

Isostearic Acid

Sucrose Stearate

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Octyldodecanol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Ceramide NP

Squalane

Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

Xylitylglucoside

Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol

Dextrin

Cyclodextrin

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Arginine

Chlorphenesin

Xanthan Gum

Adenosine

Sodium Polyacrylate

Disodium EDTA

Collagen Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Betaine, Glycereth-26, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Octapeptide-7, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Pentapeptide-18, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Isostearic Acid, Sucrose Stearate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ceramide NP, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Water, Dextrin, Cyclodextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Arginine, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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