Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm Versus IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Makeup Cleansing Balm

Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm Versus IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Makeup Cleansing Balm

This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

PEG-8 Beeswax

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Stearate

Sambucus Nigra Oil

PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

Silica

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax

Glycerin

Lecithin

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Linalool

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Geraniol

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Rosa Multiflora Flower Wax

Tocopherol

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Limonene

Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Parfum

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Menthol

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Citral

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-8 Beeswax, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sambucus Nigra Oil, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Silica, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax, Glycerin, Lecithin, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Linalool, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Geraniol, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Rosa Multiflora Flower Wax, Tocopherol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Limonene, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Parfum, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Menthol, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Citral, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Polyethylene

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

PEG-8 Isostearate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Water

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Butylene Glycol

Glyceryl Linolenate

Beta-Sitosterol

Ceteth-24

Cholesterol

Glyceryl Linoleate

Choleth-24

Polysorbate 20

Niacinamide

Squalane

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Glyceryl Arachidonate

Propylene Glycol

Panthenol

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Ubiquinone

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Propylene Carbonate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Xanthan Gum

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Ceramide Eos

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Retinyl Palmitate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Hyaluronic Acid

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water

Colloidal Oatmeal

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Biotin

Octyldodecanol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Carbomer

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Sodium Lactate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cyclomethicone

Dimethicone

Paraffinum Liquidum

Citric Acid

Disodium EDTA

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Alcohol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Polyethylene, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, PEG-8 Isostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Linolenate, Beta-Sitosterol, Ceteth-24, Cholesterol, Glyceryl Linoleate, Choleth-24, Polysorbate 20, Niacinamide, Squalane, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Propylene Glycol, Panthenol, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Ubiquinone, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Xanthan Gum, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ceramide Eos, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Silica, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water, Colloidal Oatmeal, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Biotin, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Lactate, Lecithin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Paraffinum Liquidum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Alcohol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil comes from the bitter orange, an orange native to Southeast Asia.

This orange is commonly used in cosmetics and food. It is a common ingredient for marmalade.

Citrus peels are often made up of mainly limonene, a fragrance with a citrus scent. They also contain flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory properties.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

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