Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream
Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture. What's inside Ke
Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Isononyl Isononanoate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Dimethicone
Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract
Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Tocopherol
Phenoxyethanol
Polyacrylate-13
Stearic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Cetyl Alcohol
Xanthan Gum
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Polyisobutene
Parfum
Citric Acid
Chlorphenesin
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Sodium Dehydroacetate
Disodium EDTA
Polysorbate 20
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Linalool
Citronellol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil
Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
Limonene
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Limonene
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Niacinamide
Squalane
Butylene Glycol
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Sucrose
Pentylene Glycol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Lactic Acid
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Ceramide NP
Saccharide Isomerate
Superoxide Dismutase
Ubiquinone
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Adenosine
Collagen Amino Acids
Hydroxyproline
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Glycolic Acid
Carnitine
Glycine
Carnitine Hcl
Lactobacillus Ferment
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Lecithin
Maltodextrin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Polysorbate 60
Carbomer
Ammonium Hydroxide
Potassium Hydroxide
Sodium Phytate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Triethyl Citrate
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Cananga Odorata Flower Extract
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract
Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract
Rose Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
Santalum Album Wood Extract
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Squalane, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Dimethicone, Sucrose, Pentylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ceramide NP, Saccharide Isomerate, Superoxide Dismutase, Ubiquinone, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Adenosine, Collagen Amino Acids, Hydroxyproline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycolic Acid, Carnitine, Glycine, Carnitine Hcl, Lactobacillus Ferment, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Ammonium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Triethyl Citrate, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Rose Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!