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Nutrition guide

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Versus Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme+ Global Anti-Aging Instant Refinishing Facial

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Versus Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme+ Global Anti-Aging Instant Refinishing Facial This anti-aging exfoliator is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles. What's inside Ke

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Versus Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme+ Global Anti-Aging Instant Refinishing Facial

This anti-aging exfoliator is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Isononyl Isononanoate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Dimethicone

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract

Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Tocopherol

Phenoxyethanol

Polyacrylate-13

Stearic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Cetyl Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Polyisobutene

Parfum

Citric Acid

Chlorphenesin

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Disodium EDTA

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Linalool

Citronellol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Limonene

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Limonene

Tridecyl Stearate

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate

Butylene Glycol

Glyceryl Stearate

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Silica

Acetyl Glucosamine

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ceteareth-20

Hexyldecyl Stearate

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Whey Protein

Algae Extract

Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate

Caprylyl Glycol

Sorbitol

Artemia Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Bisabolol

Caffeine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Stearyl Alcohol

Oleth-10 Phosphate

Carbomer

1,2-Hexanediol

Isoceteth-20

Triethanolamine

CI 19140

CI 14700

Tridecyl Stearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Silica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acetyl Glucosamine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Whey Protein, Algae Extract, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitol, Artemia Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Bisabolol, Caffeine, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearyl Alcohol, Oleth-10 Phosphate, Parfum, Carbomer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Isoceteth-20, Triethanolamine, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, CI 19140, CI 14700

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Similar Comparisons

SUPPLEMENTAL FIELD FILE

Notes to carry forward.

Source-derived references linked through this guide’s public topic markers.

01
REFERENCE CARDS

Ingredients, lists & structured values

INGREDIENT LIST

Ingredients Explained

  • These ingredients are found in both products.
  • Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  • This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
  • Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  • In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
  • Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
  • Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
  • While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
  • This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  • Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  • In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  • While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  • Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  • This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  • This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concen…
  • Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
  • Its main roles are:
Source trail · skinsort.com →
05
PROVISION SHELF

Products & side-by-side records

Product

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Mask

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Source: incidecoder.comOpen reference →

Product

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Oil

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Product

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

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Source: incidecoder.comOpen reference →