Elemis Pro-Collagen Naked Cleansing Balm Versus Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser

Elemis Pro-Collagen Naked Cleansing Balm Versus Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser

This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.

This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse while calming and soothing your skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

PEG-8 Beeswax

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Stearate

Sambucus Nigra Seed Oil

PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

Silica

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax

Glycerin

Lecithin

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Rosa Multiflora Flower Wax

Tocopherol

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Water

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-8 Beeswax, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sambucus Nigra Seed Oil, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Silica, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax, Glycerin, Lecithin, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Rosa Multiflora Flower Wax, Tocopherol, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Water, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Bisabolol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Usnea Barbata Extract

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract

Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Fumaric Acid

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Panthenol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Cocamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate

Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate

Cetrimonium Chloride

Aminomethyl Propanol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Disodium EDTA

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Usnea Barbata Extract, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Fumaric Acid, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cocamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Disodium EDTA

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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