Elemis Pro-Collagen Rose Micro Serum Versus Chanel Sublimage L'extrait De Nuit Regenerating & Restoring Night Concentrate

Elemis Pro-Collagen Rose Micro Serum Versus Chanel Sublimage L'extrait De Nuit Regenerating & Restoring Night Concentrate

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Isononyl Isononanoate

Pentylene Glycol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Butylene Glycol

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Carbomer

Chlorphenesin

Parfum

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Rose Extract

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Mica

Phenethyl Alcohol

CI 77891

Sodium Carrageenan

Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract

CI 77491

Collagen Amino Acids

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Maris Sal

Caesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract

Tocopherol

Tin Oxide

Benzyl Salicylate

Citronellol

Geraniol

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Isononyl Isononanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Parfum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Rose Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Mica, Phenethyl Alcohol, CI 77891, Sodium Carrageenan, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, CI 77491, Collagen Amino Acids, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Maris Sal, Caesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Tin Oxide, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Geraniol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Methylpropanediol

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Water

Secale Cereale Seed Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Leaf Cell Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Flower Extract

Glutamylamidoethyl Imidazole

Sodium Carbomer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum

Alcaligenes Polysaccharides

Amodimethicone

Adenosine

Sodium Benzoate

Caramel

Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Methylpropanediol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Water, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Leaf Cell Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Flower Extract, Glutamylamidoethyl Imidazole, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Parfum, Sodium Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Amodimethicone, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Caramel

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Isononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic skin-conditioner and texture enhancer. It is created from nonanoic acid, a fatty acid found in cocoa and lavender oil.

As an emollient, Isononyl Isononanoate helps keep your skin soft and smooth. This is because emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in.

Isononyl Isononanoate helps give products a velvet feel and improves spreadability.

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil is from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant. It is a skin conditioning agent and emollient that sits on top of skin to soften and hydrate it.

Over 98% of the oil is made up of long-chain fatty acids, mostly aachidic acid (61%), docosenoic acid (~16%), and docosadienoic acid (~18%).

This combination is not really found in any other plant oil and is the reason this is one of the most stable botanical oils available.

Some studies show it to be more stable than jojoba oil, helps a product resist going rancid, and can help extend the shelf life of a formula.

It also naturally contains vitamin E and phytosterols that give it a mild antioxidant benefit.

This ingredient is typically used from around 1% to fairly high levels since it's gentle; it's well-tolerated and low on the irritation scale.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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