Elemis Superfood Midnight Facial Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Oxygenating Night Cream

Elemis Superfood Midnight Facial Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Oxygenating Night Cream

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

PEG-8

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Hydroxyacetophenone

Phenoxyethanol

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Parfum

Carbomer

Disodium EDTA

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Bentonite

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Limonene

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Propanediol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Linalool

Benzyl Alcohol

Citronellol

Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Citrus Aurantifolia Oil

Musa Sapientum Flower Extract

Citral

Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract

Tocopherol

Dehydroacetic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Citric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Water, PEG-8, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Parfum, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Bentonite, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Limonene, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Propanediol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia Oil, Musa Sapientum Flower Extract, Citral, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Isononyl Isononanoate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Lauryl Laurate

Ethyl Macadamiate

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Cetyl Alcohol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Starch

Butylene Glycol

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Chlorphenesin

Sesamum Indicum Oil Unsaponifiables

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables

Persea Gratissima Oil

Phytosterols

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Collagen Amino Acids

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Mannitol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sorbitan Oleate

Geraniol

Hydroxycitronellal

Malic Acid

Diatomaceous Earth

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Zinc Sulfate

Hexapeptide-9

Water, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Lauryl Laurate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Starch, Parfum, Butylene Glycol, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Chlorphenesin, Sesamum Indicum Oil Unsaponifiables, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables, Persea Gratissima Oil, Phytosterols, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Citronellol, Linalool, Collagen Amino Acids, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Mannitol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Oleate, Geraniol, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Diatomaceous Earth, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Zinc Sulfate, Hexapeptide-9

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is made up of glycerin and polyacrylic acid. It helps hydrate your skin as a humectant.

This ingredient forms a hydrogel that delivers moisturizing, water-based ingredients to the skin. It is also used to thicken a product and to give it a smooth texture.

Acrylic acid itself is toxic, but the polymer form (this ingredient) is too large to penetrate skin, making it non-toxic.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

We don't have a description for Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract yet.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.

This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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