Estée Lauder DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15 Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

Estée Lauder DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15 Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

This day moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%

Homosalate 2%

Water

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Polyester-8

Petrolatum

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Ricinoleate

Octyldodecyl Myristate

Steareth-21

Steareth-2

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate

Dimethicone

Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract

Gentiana Lutea Root Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Extract

Artemia Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Stearyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Sorbitan Olivate

Caffeine

Pentylene Glycol

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Behenyl Alcohol

Pantethine

Triacontanyl Pvp

Acrylic Acid/Vp Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycerin

Linoleic Acid

Polyquaternium-51

Cholesterol

Cetearyl Olivate

Squalane

Sodium PCA

Urea

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ergothioneine

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Trehalose

Lecithin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer

Cyclodextrin

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid

Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate

Sodium Hydroxide

Parfum

Fumaric Acid

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Salicylate

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Linalool

Mica

CI 19140

CI 42090

CI 77289

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 2%, Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Polyester-8, Petrolatum, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Steareth-21, Steareth-2, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate, Dimethicone, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Artemia Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Stearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Sorbitan Olivate, Caffeine, Pentylene Glycol, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Pantethine, Triacontanyl Pvp, Acrylic Acid/Vp Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Linoleic Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Cholesterol, Cetearyl Olivate, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ergothioneine, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Trehalose, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Cyclodextrin, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Fumaric Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Mica, CI 19140, CI 42090, CI 77289

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Isononyl Isononanoate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract

Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Tocopherol

Polyacrylate-13

Stearic Acid

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Cetyl Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Polyisobutene

Chlorphenesin

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Citronellol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Limonene

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Limonene

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylphenyl Methylpropional is a synthetic fragrance. You might know it as "lilial". The scent of this ingredient is floral-like and similar to the scent of lily flowers.

In March of 2022, the EU banned this ingredient in both rinse-off and leave-on products. This is because research found Butylphenyl Methylpropional to disrupt fertility in rats.

This ingredient is also a known EU allergen, meaning it is likely to cause an allergic reaction. Irritated skin can be damaging.

We always recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns or questions about this ingredient.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde is a synthetic fragrance. The more common name for this ingredient is Lyral.

The scent of lyral is described as sweet and floral-like.

Lyral is a known EU allergen and causes contact dermatitis when applied to the skin.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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