Filorga Time-Filler 5XP Cream Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Oxygenating Night Cream

Filorga Time-Filler 5XP Cream Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Oxygenating Night Cream

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Adenosine and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Butylene Glycol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Squalane

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Silica

Sucrose Palmitate

Phenoxyethanol

Parfum

Stearalkonium Hectorite

1,2-Hexanediol

Lauroyl Lysine

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Glyceryl Linoleate

Cetyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Tocopheryl Acetate

Propylene Carbonate

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Citric Acid

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Sodium Chloride

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Carbomer

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Adenosine

Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Lactate

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Levulinic Acid

Glyceryl Caprylate

Potassium Sorbate

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Citrate

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Sodium Hydroxide

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Glucose

Tocopherol

P-Anisic Acid

Potassium Chloride

Calcium Chloride

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Magnesium Sulfate

Glutamine

Sodium Phosphate

Ascorbic Acid

Sodium Acetate

Lysine Hcl

Arginine Hcl

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Alanine

Histidine Hcl

Valine

Leucine

Threonine

Isoleucine

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Tryptophan

Phenylalanine

Tyrosine

Glycine

Polysorbate 80

Serine

Cystine

Cyanocobalamin

Glutathione

Asparagine

Aspartic Acid

Ornithine Hcl

Glutamic Acid

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Biotin

Proline

Methionine

Taurine

Hydroxyproline

Glucosamine Hcl

Coenzyme A

Sodium Glucuronate

Thiamine Diphosphate

Retinyl Acetate

Inositol

Niacin

Niacinamide

Pyridoxine Hcl

Calcium Pantothenate

Riboflavin

Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate

Thiamine Hcl

Folic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Butylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Silica, Sucrose Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Stearalkonium Hectorite, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Carbonate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citric Acid, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Sodium Chloride, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Carbomer, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Adenosine, Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Levulinic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Potassium Sorbate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Glucose, Tocopherol, P-Anisic Acid, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Magnesium Sulfate, Glutamine, Sodium Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Acetate, Lysine Hcl, Arginine Hcl, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine, Histidine Hcl, Valine, Leucine, Threonine, Isoleucine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Glycine, Polysorbate 80, Serine, Cystine, Cyanocobalamin, Glutathione, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Ornithine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Biotin, Proline, Methionine, Taurine, Hydroxyproline, Glucosamine Hcl, Coenzyme A, Sodium Glucuronate, Thiamine Diphosphate, Retinyl Acetate, Inositol, Niacin, Niacinamide, Pyridoxine Hcl, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Thiamine Hcl, Folic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Isononyl Isononanoate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Lauryl Laurate

Ethyl Macadamiate

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Starch

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Chlorphenesin

Sesamum Indicum Oil Unsaponifiables

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables

Persea Gratissima Oil

Phytosterols

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Citronellol

Linalool

Collagen Amino Acids

Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Mannitol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sorbitan Oleate

Geraniol

Limonene

Hydroxycitronellal

Malic Acid

Diatomaceous Earth

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Zinc Sulfate

Hexapeptide-9

Water, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Lauryl Laurate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Starch, Parfum, Butylene Glycol, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Chlorphenesin, Sesamum Indicum Oil Unsaponifiables, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables, Persea Gratissima Oil, Phytosterols, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Citronellol, Linalool, Collagen Amino Acids, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Mannitol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Oleate, Geraniol, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Diatomaceous Earth, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Zinc Sulfate, Hexapeptide-9

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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