Hanasui Collagen Water Sunscreen SPF 30+ PA+++ Versus Hanasui Power Serum Acne Serum

Hanasui Collagen Water Sunscreen SPF 30+ PA+++ Versus Hanasui Power Serum Acne Serum

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.

This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid to clear breakouts and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Butylene Glycol

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Tris-Biphenyl Triazine

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Niacinamide

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Inositol

Octocrylene

Glycine Soja Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Polyester-7

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Decyl Glucoside

Carbomer

Disodium EDTA

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Lactobacillus/Collagen Ferment Filtrate

Lecithin

Oryza Sativa Germ Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Tocopheryl Acetate

Triethylene Glycol

Disodium Phosphate

Trideceth-6

Xanthan Gum

Artemisia Vulgaris Extract

Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Tris-Biphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Niacinamide, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Inositol, Octocrylene, Glycine Soja Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Polyester-7, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Decyl Glucoside, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Lactobacillus/Collagen Ferment Filtrate, Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triethylene Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Trideceth-6, Xanthan Gum, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Betaine

Methyl Gluceth-20

Salicylic Acid

Glycolic Acid

Propanediol

Ethoxydiglycol

Succinic Acid

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Glycerin

PEG-20

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Allantoin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Arginine

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dehydroxanthan Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Acer Saccharum Extract

Platycarya Strobilacea Extract

Psoralea Corylifolia Fruit Extract

Sophora Flavescens Root Extract

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid

Oleanolic Acid

Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Betaine, Methyl Gluceth-20, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Propanediol, Ethoxydiglycol, Succinic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Glycerin, PEG-20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Arginine, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Dehydroxanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Acer Saccharum Extract, Platycarya Strobilacea Extract, Psoralea Corylifolia Fruit Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Carbomer, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Oleanolic Acid

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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