Hanasui Collagen Water Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ Versus Scora 5% Niacinamide Hydramoist Gel

Hanasui Collagen Water Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ Versus Scora 5% Niacinamide Hydramoist Gel

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Tris-Biphenyl Triazine

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Polyester-7

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Sodium Polyacrylate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Phenoxyethanol

Decyl Glucoside

1,2-Hexanediol

Trideceth-6

Lactobacillus/Collagen Ferment Filtrate

Collagen

Tocopheryl Acetate

Biosaccharide Gum-4

Disodium Phosphate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Artemisia Vulgaris Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Tris-Biphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Polyester-7, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Phenoxyethanol, Decyl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trideceth-6, Lactobacillus/Collagen Ferment Filtrate, Collagen, Tocopheryl Acetate, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Disodium Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Sodium Hydroxide

Niacinamide

Alpha-Arbutin

Panthenol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Allantoin

Chlorphenesin

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Lactobacillus/Collagen/Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Leaf Extract Ferment Lysate

Paeonia Albiflora Flower Extract

Gluconobacter/Honey Ferment Filtrate

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water

Polyglutamic Acid

Caffeine

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Siloxanetriol Alginate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Sorbic Acid

Bee Venom

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Water, Niacinamide, Alpha-Arbutin, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Chlorphenesin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactobacillus/Collagen/Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Leaf Extract Ferment Lysate, Paeonia Albiflora Flower Extract, Gluconobacter/Honey Ferment Filtrate, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water, Polyglutamic Acid, Caffeine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sorbic Acid, Bee Venom, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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