Holika Holika Purple Collagen Anti Wrinkle Multi Balm Versus Dr.Melaxin Cemenrete Calcium Multi Balm

Holika Holika Purple Collagen Anti Wrinkle Multi Balm Versus Dr.Melaxin Cemenrete Calcium Multi Balm

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Resveratrol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Beeswax

Octyldodecanol

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Diisostearyl Malate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Euphorbia Cerifera Wax

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Polyethylene

Sorbitan Olivate

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Bisabolol

Microcrystalline Wax

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Tocopherol

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Dehydroacetic Acid

Water

Monascus Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Glycerin

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Beta Vulgaris Root Extract

Angelica Gigas Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Glycolipids

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

1,2-Hexanediol

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Resveratrol

Collagen Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Beeswax, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Polyethylene, Sorbitan Olivate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Bisabolol, Microcrystalline Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Tocopherol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dehydroacetic Acid, Water, Monascus Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Glycerin, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Glycolipids, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Resveratrol, Collagen Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen

Triethylhexanoin

Caprylyl Glycol

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Persea Gratissima Oil

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Adenosine

Butylene Glycol

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Tabebuia Impetiginosa Bark Extract

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glucose

Arginine

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Citric Acid

CI 77220

Ascorbic Acid

Acetyl Glucosamine

Glutathione

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyethylene, Microcrystalline Wax, Octyldodecanol, Triethylhexanoin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Adenosine, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Tabebuia Impetiginosa Bark Extract, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glucose, Arginine, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Citric Acid, CI 77220, Ascorbic Acid, Acetyl Glucosamine, Glutathione, Collagen Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Collagen extract is derived from parts of animals. It has skin conditioning properties and is mostly comprised of glycine, proline, and hydroxypoline. These are amino acids.

While our skin does have collagen, this ingredient is not used by the skin for anti-aging. Applying collagen topically has not been linked to helping with collagen loss in skin. All the benefits of collagen are related to hydration.

This ingredient will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.

This ingredient is also known as Bhringaraj extract or False Daisy. It is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.

Research shows it has antioxidant properties; lab studies have found it can protect skin cells from UV-induced damage and help suppress inflammation.

There's also some interesting research on its potential to support hair growth by promoting the growth phase of the hair cycle.

Those with an allergy to plants in the daisy family may want to patch test this ingredient. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated otherwise.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.

In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil is a lightweight oil from the seeds of the Moringa oleifera tree. In cosmetics, it's an emollient that forms a light film to slow water loss and soften skin.

Its fatty acid composition is dominated by oleic acid (70-78%), with smaller amounts of behenic, palmitic, and stearic acids (this profile is actually pretty similar to olive oil).

Notably, this ingredient is oxidatively stable for an oil and resists going rancid as fast as other oils.

A small, in vivo study on 32 participants found a cream with this ingredient increased skin hydration with no reported skin irritation. It also found the tocopherol content gave it some antioxidant activity as well.

One thing to flag for fungal acne: Because this oil is so high in oleic acid, Malassezia can use it as a food source and this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

For everyone else, this ingredient is well-tolerated and nourishing with a good safety track record.

Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).

It is:

You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.

This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.

Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.

This ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.

The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.

Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.

The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.

Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.

It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).

Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.

Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.

Polyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.

It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.

It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.

The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.

Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.

Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.

Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.

Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).

Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.

Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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