Institut Esthederm Intensive Pro-Collagen+ Cream Versus Vichy Liftactiv Collagen Specialist

Institut Esthederm Intensive Pro-Collagen+ Cream Versus Vichy Liftactiv Collagen Specialist

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine and Ascorbyl Glucoside to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Diisopropyl Sebacate

Isostearyl Isostearate

Glycerin

Propanediol

C10-18 Triglycerides

Octyldodecanol

Cera Alba

Dipropylene Glycol

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Microcrystalline Cellulose

C12-16 Alcohols

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Xylose

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Hexapeptide-9

Butylene Glycol

Parfum

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Palmitic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Mannitol

Cellulose Gum

Sodium Citrate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Propylene Glycol

Carbomer

Sodium Lactate

Polysorbate 20

Eugenol

Carnosine

Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Mineral Salts

Water, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Glycerin, Propanediol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Octyldodecanol, Cera Alba, Dipropylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, C12-16 Alcohols, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Xylose, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hexapeptide-9, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Mannitol, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Citrate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Eugenol, Carnosine, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Mineral Salts

Dimethicone

Isohexadecane

Alcohol Denat.

Silica

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

Synthetic Wax

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Eperua Falcata Bark Extract

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Stearyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Oleate

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer

Ceteareth-6

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Phytate

Cyclodextrin

Adenosine

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Nylon-12

Isopropyl Alcohol

Propylene Carbonate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Dextrin

Pisum Sativum Extract

Tocopherol

Phenoxyethanol

CI 15985

CI 77891

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Isohexadecane, Alcohol Denat., Silica, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Propanediol, Synthetic Wax, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Eperua Falcata Bark Extract, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Oleate, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Ceteareth-6, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Cyclodextrin, Adenosine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Nylon-12, Isopropyl Alcohol, Propylene Carbonate, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Dextrin, Pisum Sativum Extract, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, CI 15985, CI 77891, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 is a signal peptide. Signal peptides tell your skin to create collagen or start tissue repair.

This peptide plays a role in key skin components such as collagen, lumican, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Lumican is used in collagen organization and regulation, while GAGs are a component that holds water in our skin.

The manufacturer claims this ingredient is effective at firming the skin and enhancing skin hydration.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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