It's Skin Collagen Nutrition Cream Versus It's Skin Hyaluronic Acid Moisture Cream

It's Skin Collagen Nutrition Cream Versus It's Skin Hyaluronic Acid Moisture Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Laminaria Japonica Extract and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Portulaca Oleracea Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Octyldodecanol

Cyclomethicone

Butylene Glycol

Glycereth-26

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glycerin

PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Sodium Polyacrylate

1,2-Hexanediol

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Parfum

Propylene Glycol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Trideceth-6

Hydrolyzed Malt Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Benzyl Salicylate

Saussurea Involucrata Extract

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Linalool

Disodium EDTA

Hexyl Cinnamal

Hydroxycitronellal

Citronellol

Ethyl Hexanediol

Geraniol

Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract

Phenoxyethanol

CI 15985

CI 14700

Water, Octyldodecanol, Cyclomethicone, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Parfum, Propylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Trideceth-6, Hydrolyzed Malt Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzyl Salicylate, Saussurea Involucrata Extract, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Disodium EDTA, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Ethyl Hexanediol, Geraniol, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, CI 15985, CI 14700

Dimethicone

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

PPG-26-Buteth-26

Carbomer

Triethanolamine

Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycereth-26 is a synthetic ingredient and polyethylene glycol ether of Glycerin. Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin and helps keep your skin moisturized.

It is a humectant and helps add texture to products. It can make your product thicker.

As a humectant, it helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps your skin stay hydrated.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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