Collagen & Peptide NutritionNutrition and collagen guides

Nutrition guide

K-Secret Collagen Vita Secret Multi Balm Versus Holika Holika Purple Collagen Anti Wrinkle Multi Balm

K-Secret Collagen Vita Secret Multi Balm Versus Holika Holika Purple Collagen Anti Wrinkle Multi Balm This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Ascorbic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. T

K-Secret Collagen Vita Secret Multi Balm Versus Holika Holika Purple Collagen Anti Wrinkle Multi Balm

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Ascorbic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Resveratrol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Vegetable Oil

Ascorbic Acid 15%

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Diisostearyl Malate

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Ceresin

Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate

Hexyldecyl Ethylhexanoate

Beeswax

Euphorbia Cerifera Wax

Dipropylene Glycol

Shorea Robusta Seed Butter

Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate

Parfum

Caprylyl Glycol

Copernicia Cerifera Wax

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Adenosine

Water

Butylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Collagen 0%

Panthenol

1,2-Hexanediol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Oligopeptide-1

Oligopeptide-2

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vegetable Oil, Ascorbic Acid 15%, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Ceresin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Hexyldecyl Ethylhexanoate, Beeswax, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Dipropylene Glycol, Shorea Robusta Seed Butter, Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate, Parfum, Caprylyl Glycol, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Adenosine, Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Collagen 0%, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-2

Octyldodecanol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Polyethylene

Sorbitan Olivate

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Bisabolol

Microcrystalline Wax

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Tocopherol

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Dehydroacetic Acid

Monascus Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Glycerin

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Beta Vulgaris Root Extract

Angelica Gigas Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Glycolipids

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Resveratrol

Collagen Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Beeswax, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Polyethylene, Sorbitan Olivate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Bisabolol, Microcrystalline Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Tocopherol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dehydroacetic Acid, Water, Monascus Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Glycerin, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Glycolipids, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Resveratrol, Collagen Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Beeswax is natural wax produced by honey bees to build their honeycomb.

Because it forms a protective layer on your skin, it can help lock in moisture and reduce water loss. It is also widely used as a thickener and emulsifier in lip balms and lotions. Research suggests beeswax containing moisturizers can support skin barrier integrity.

In comedogenic testing, Beeswax scored a 0-2, which is on the low end. Whether or not a product clogs your pores really comes down to the formula as a whole (not any single ingredient on its own).

Cera Alba is the white, bleached form of this ingredient.

Just so you know, beeswax is not vegan since it is animal-derived. It cannot be removed with water, but can be taken off with an oil cleanser.

People with a known Propolis allergy also report to have reactions from beeswax.

Beeswax's wax esters are derived primarily from palmitic and oleic acid (C16 and C18:1). Both of these fall within the C11-C24 feeding window.

The Malassezia yeast can potentially cleave these esters and release usable fatty acids, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. However, not everyone will react to this ingredient.

Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.

As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.

It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.

The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Euphorbia Cerifera Wax (aka candelilla wax) is a vegan stand-in for beeswax. It is a plant-derived wax that functions as an astringent, emulsion stabilizer, film-former, and skin conditioner.

On skin, it forms a protective barrier that helps lock in moisture while it enhances product stability, prevents separation, and helps color last longer in makeup.

This ingredient is generally safe for use in cosmetics with one nuance: some grades of candelilla wax can naturally contain benzyl alcohol at concentrations high enough to require declaration under EU labeling rules. This isn't a concern for most people but relevant for those with fragrance sensitivities.

Candelilla wax contains fatty acids (mainly C31) and wax esters that can be used by the Malassezia yeast, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

You might see Euphorbia Cerifera "Cera" instead of "wax". This is because some brands, databases, or labels use it interchangeably; they're the same ingredient.

Similar Comparisons

SUPPLEMENTAL FIELD FILE

Notes to carry forward.

Source-derived references linked through this guide’s public topic markers.

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REFERENCE CARDS

Ingredients, lists & structured values

INGREDIENT LIST

Ingredients Explained

  • These ingredients are found in both products.
  • Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  • This ingredient is more commonly known as Zhi Mu root. You might see this ingredient listed under 'Volufiline' products.
  • That's because 'Volufiline' is comprised of this ingredient and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene.
  • Zhi Mu root is rich in sarsasapogenin. This compound has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
  • It is commonly used in East Asian medicine.
  • Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
  • In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
  • Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
  • Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
  • You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your …
  • Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
  • It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
  • This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
  • This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
  • In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
  • Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
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PROVISION SHELF

Products & side-by-side records