KAINE Vegan Collagen Youth Cream Versus AXIS - Y Biome Recharging Enhanced Night Balm

KAINE Vegan Collagen Youth Cream Versus AXIS - Y Biome Recharging Enhanced Night Balm

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Tremella Fuciformis Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Glycerin

Water

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Diisostearyl Malate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Pentylene Glycol

Vinyldimethicone

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

1,2-Hexanediol

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Soluble Collagen

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

Panthenol

Boron Nitride

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Allantoin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tromethamine

Adenosine

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Lauroyl Lysine

Sodium Phytate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Cholesterol

Beta-Glucan

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Tocopherol

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Potassium Hyaluronate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Glycerin, Water, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Vinyldimethicone, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, 1,2-Hexanediol, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Boron Nitride, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tromethamine, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Cholesterol, Beta-Glucan, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Potassium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Methylpropanediol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Polyglycerin-3

Betaine

Centella Asiatica Extract

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Fructooligosaccharides

Disodium EDTA

Dextrin

Copaifera Officinalis Resin

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Bifida Ferment Filtrate

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Polyglycerin-3, Betaine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Fructooligosaccharides, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Dextrin, Butylene Glycol, Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Beta-Glucan, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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