La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Oxygenating Night Cream

La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Oxygenating Night Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Cholesterol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Algae Extract

Cyclopentasiloxane

Petrolatum

Glyceryl Distearate

Phenyl Trimethicone

Cyclohexasiloxane

Butylene Glycol

Cholesterol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Steareth-10

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Polysilicone-11

Glyceryl Triacetyl Ricinoleate

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Glycerin

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Medicago Sativa Seed Powder

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Sodium Gluconate

Copper Gluconate

Calcium Gluconate

Magnesium Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Tocopheryl Succinate

Niacin

Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder

Water

Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Plankton Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Caffeine

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Triethylhexanoin

Sodium PCA

Cetyl Alcohol

Diethylhexyl Succinate

Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate

Cyanocobalamin

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Distearyldimonium Chloride

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Sucrose

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Trehalose

Hydrolyzed Algin

Micrococcus Lysate

Maris Sal

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Lactoperoxidase

Glucose Oxidase

Urea

Glucose

Polyacrylamide

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

PEG-8

Laureth-7

Lecithin

Triacetin

Sodium Chloride

Polyquaternium-51

Potassium Phosphate

Alcohol Denat.

Parfum

Limonene

Linalool

Hydroxycitronellal

Citronellol

Geraniol

BHT

Disodium EDTA

Sorbic Acid

Chlorphenesin

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Algae Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Petrolatum, Glyceryl Distearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Cholesterol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Steareth-10, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Polysilicone-11, Glyceryl Triacetyl Ricinoleate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Water, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Plankton Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium PCA, Cetyl Alcohol, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Cyanocobalamin, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Sucrose, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed Algin, Micrococcus Lysate, Maris Sal, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Lactoperoxidase, Glucose Oxidase, Urea, Glucose, Polyacrylamide, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, PEG-8, Laureth-7, Lecithin, Triacetin, Sodium Chloride, Polyquaternium-51, Potassium Phosphate, Alcohol Denat., Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Geraniol, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Isononyl Isononanoate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Lauryl Laurate

Ethyl Macadamiate

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Starch

Sesamum Indicum Oil Unsaponifiables

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables

Persea Gratissima Oil

Phytosterols

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Collagen Amino Acids

Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Mannitol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Tocopherol

Sorbitan Oleate

Citric Acid

Malic Acid

Diatomaceous Earth

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Sodium Hydroxide

Zinc Sulfate

Hexapeptide-9

Water, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Lauryl Laurate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Starch, Parfum, Butylene Glycol, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Chlorphenesin, Sesamum Indicum Oil Unsaponifiables, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables, Persea Gratissima Oil, Phytosterols, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Citronellol, Linalool, Collagen Amino Acids, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Mannitol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Oleate, Geraniol, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Diatomaceous Earth, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Zinc Sulfate, Hexapeptide-9

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate Se is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of glyceryl stearate. Self-emusifying means this ingredient automatically blends with water. It is an emulsifier, emollient, and cleansing agent.

As an emulsifier, Glyceryl Stearate Se prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It is also a surfactant, meaning it helps cleanse the skin. Surfactants help gather oil, dirt, and other pollutants so they may be rinsed away easily.

Emollients help your skin stay smooth and soft. It does so by creating a film on top of the skin that helps trap moisture in.

Hydroxycitronellal is a fragrance created from citronellal. The smell of hydroxycitronellal is often described as "citrus-like" or "melon-like".

Hydroxycitronellal is a known EU allergen and may cause irritation when applied to the skin.

Laminaria Digitata Extract comes from the big brown seaweed (or kelp) that grows in the North Atlantic. In skincare, it's mostly used as a skin protectant and conditioning agent.

The most interesting stuff inside is mostly just sugars and minerals: fucoidan (a sulfated polysaccharide), laminarin (a beta-glucan), alginates, and phlorotannins (seaweed polyphenols).

Any antioxidant and soothing claims mostly come from those polysaccharides; crude laminarin and fucoidan from Laminaria digitata do show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in lab assays.

Just know that the lab assays are test-tube work on isolated compounds and not clinical trials on the finished extract.

Realistically, this ingredient is a nice-feeling and hydrating skin conditioner (not really an active).

Safety-wise, it's one of the better documented seaweeds and safe to be used in cosmetics according to the CIR Expert Panel.

Industry surveys find that usage concentrations run can be found up to 5% in bubble baths and leave-on usage is more likely 0.1-3%.

The risk of allergy is also quite low as human repeat insult patch tests (under 5% and blends containing 8-12%) came back non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Rabbit studies came back negative too, though one trade mixture at 1.5-2.5% in water + propylene glycol did cause moderate irritation at 30 minutes.

Reported seaweed allergies in the literature are almost all occupational (people handling wet kelp) or from a totally unrelated blue/green alga.

At this time, there's actually no published comedogenicity test on it and the evidence that does exist points away from clogging.

Laminaria Digitata Extract has never been run through the rabbit ear assay or the Mills & Kligman human model and it isn't in Fulton's 1989 list of tested comedogenic ratings.

The CIR's brown algae review pulled every published and unpublished study industry had on 82 seaweed ingredients and found no comedogenicity data for any of them.

So any number you see online was assigned by a person and not actually measured.

In 2012, Capitanio et al. ran an 8-week double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial in 60 people with mild acne using a Laminaria digitata-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone.

They found comedones, papules and pustules dropped significantly more in the active group than the vehicle group at 2, 4 and 8 weeks.

Caveats for this study: a Laminaria digitata-derived oligosaccharide is just fraction and not the plain extract, and the zinc is likely doing real work. Still, the study found comedones went down in acne-prone skin.

This fits mechanistically. Comedogenesis is largely a lipid story and this is water-soluble polysaccharides, minerals, and polyphenols. There's nothing really to plug a follicle with.

The real caveat is the carrier: some supplier versions come dispersed in caprylic/capric triglycerides.

The 0-5 scale comes from applying ingredients to the inside of an albino rabbit's ear. Rabbit follicles are far more reactive than human ones so it over-predicts. Even petrolatum was reassigned as non-comedogenic by the original scientist, Kligman.

Here are three more problems of comedogenic ratings:

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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