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Nutrition guide

Lancôme Renergie Multi-lift Ultra Full Spectrum Anti-ageing Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Deep Cream

Lancôme Renergie Multi-lift Ultra Full Spectrum Anti-ageing Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Deep Cream This anti-aging treatment is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-look

Lancôme Renergie Multi-lift Ultra Full Spectrum Anti-ageing Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Deep Cream

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening treatment is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Octyldodecanol

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Guanosine

Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol

Sodium Citrate

Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Levulinate

Stearic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Phenylethyl Resorcinol

Adenosine

Acer Saccharum Extract

Palmitic Acid

Polyacrylamide

Chlorphenesin

Poloxamer 338

Limonene

Xanthan Gum

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Benzyl Alcohol

Cinnamic Acid

Propylene Glycol

2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Myristic Acid

Geraniol

Disodium EDTA

Citric Acid

Potassium Hydroxide

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Potassium Sorbate

BHT

Laureth-7

Levulinic Acid

Hexyl Cinnamal

Glyceryl Caprylate

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Guanosine, Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Levulinate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Adenosine, Acer Saccharum Extract, Palmitic Acid, Polyacrylamide, Chlorphenesin, Poloxamer 338, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Benzyl Alcohol, Cinnamic Acid, Propylene Glycol, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Myristic Acid, Geraniol, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Potassium Sorbate, BHT, Laureth-7, Levulinic Acid, Hexyl Cinnamal, Glyceryl Caprylate, Parfum

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Sucrose

Pentylene Glycol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Collagen Amino Acids

Niacinamide

Carnitine Hcl

Hydroxyproline

Glycine

Carnitine

Squalane

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tocopherol

Saccharide Isomerate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Superoxide Dismutase

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Ubiquinone

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Lactobacillus Ferment

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Glycolic Acid

Lecithin

Biotin

Maltodextrin

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Carbomer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ammonium Hydroxide

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Phytate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Cananga Odorata Flower Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Rose Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Santalum Album Wood Extract

Triethyl Citrate

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Dimethicone, Sucrose, Pentylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Collagen Amino Acids, Niacinamide, Carnitine Hcl, Hydroxyproline, Glycine, Carnitine, Squalane, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Saccharide Isomerate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Superoxide Dismutase, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ubiquinone, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Lactobacillus Ferment, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Glycolic Acid, Lecithin, Biotin, Maltodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Rose Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Triethyl Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.

Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:

In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.

The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.

A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.

Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).

Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Hydroxide (also known as potash) is a strong alkaline ingredient that does one job: it nudges a product's pH up so the whole formula lands in a skin-friendly range.

It's also the base that turns oils into liquid soap during the soap making process.

An expert safety panel reviewed it and found it safe when formulations are made to be non-irritating.

As a pH adjuster, it's typically used well under 1% though regulatory caps go much higher: 5% in nail cuticle removers and 2-4.5% in hair straighteners.

Though there is some concern for irritation from raw or high pH material, a well-balanced formula will be a non-issue for the vast majority of people.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

SUPPLEMENTAL FIELD FILE

Notes to carry forward.

Source-derived references linked through this guide’s public topic markers.

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REFERENCE CARDS

Ingredients, lists & structured values

INGREDIENT LIST

Ingredients List

  • Collagen Water
  • Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
  • Homosalate
  • Butylene Glycol
  • Ethylhexyl Salicylate
  • Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
  • Silica
  • Panthenol
  • Ethylhexyl Triazone
  • Niacinamide
  • Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
  • Water
  • 1,2-Hexanediol
  • Caprylyl Methicone
  • Pentylene Glycol
  • Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  • Polymethylsilsesquioxane
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PROVISION SHELF

Products & side-by-side records