Lumene Nordic Bloom [LUMO] Vegan Collagen Essence Versus Lumene Arctic Dew Quenching Aqua Serum

Lumene Nordic Bloom [LUMO] Vegan Collagen Essence Versus Lumene Arctic Dew Quenching Aqua Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Urea and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Juice

Water

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Xanthan Gum

Hydroxyacetophenone

Chondrus Crispus

Sodium Gluconate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Pentylene Glycol

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Potassium Sorbate

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Juice, Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Chondrus Crispus, Sodium Gluconate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Pentylene Glycol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Potassium Sorbate

Betula Alba Juice

Eriophorum Spissum Flower/Stem Extract

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Betaine

Trehalose

Urea

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Caprylyl Glycol

Serine

Copper Gluconate

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenethyl Alcohol

Algin

Disodium Phosphate

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Pullulan

Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides

Sodium Carrageenan

Sodium Salicylate

Citric Acid

Glucose

Potassium Phosphate

Sorbic Acid

Maris Sal

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Benzyl Salicylate

Citronellol

Limonene

Linalool

Parfum

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Betula Alba Juice, Glycerin, Eriophorum Spissum Flower/Stem Extract, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Xanthan Gum, Betaine, Trehalose, Urea, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Serine, Copper Gluconate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenethyl Alcohol, Algin, Disodium Phosphate, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Pullulan, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides, Sodium Carrageenan, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Glucose, Potassium Phosphate, Sorbic Acid, Maris Sal, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Limonene, Linalool, Parfum

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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