maru.derm Hyaluronic Acid + Collagen Anti-Aging Serum Versus Neogen Probiotics Double Action Serum

maru.derm Hyaluronic Acid + Collagen Anti-Aging Serum Versus Neogen Probiotics Double Action Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Niacinamide

Propylene Glycol

Pisum Sativum Peptide

Panthenol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

Glycine

Alanine

Serine

Valine

Proline

Threonine

Isoleucine

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Water, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Hydroxyethylcellulose

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 21%

Isopentyldiol

Triethylhexanoin

Propanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Tromethamine

Adenosine

Glycerin

Betaine

Allantoin

Trehalose

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Xylitol

Juglans Regia Seed Oil

Lactic Acid

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment

Honey Extract

Sodium PCA

Sodium Lactate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glyceryl Caprylate

PCA

Phospholipids

Gluconic Acid

Ceramide NP

Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract

Tuber Melanosporum Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Cholesterol

Tuber Magnatum Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Glutathione

Hyaluronic Acid

Beta-Glucan

Phytosterols

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Limonene

Linalool

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Carbomer

Coptis Japonica Extract

Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Squalane

Polydecene

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Acacia Senegal Gum

Agar

Royal Jelly Extract

Propolis Extract

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Guaiazulene

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide As

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide AP

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-9

Tripeptide-2

Nonapeptide-1

Hexapeptide-11

Water, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 21%, Isopentyldiol, Triethylhexanoin, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Adenosine, Glycerin, Betaine, Allantoin, Trehalose, Panthenol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Xylitol, Juglans Regia Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Honey Extract, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Caprylate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Phospholipids, Gluconic Acid, Ceramide NP, Glycine, Alanine, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Tuber Melanosporum Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Serine, Valine, Cholesterol, Isoleucine, Threonine, Proline, Tuber Magnatum Extract, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Glutathione, Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Phytosterols, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Limonene, Linalool, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Carbomer, Coptis Japonica Extract, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Squalane, Polydecene, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Agar, Royal Jelly Extract, Propolis Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Guaiazulene, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-2, Nonapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Aspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.

Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.

Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.

Histidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.

Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier.

One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin:

Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.

Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid? This is because adults are able to create it but children must get it from their diet.

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Isoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.

Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Phenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.

This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.

Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.

Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.

Proline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.

It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.

Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.

Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.

Serine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.

Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.

Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Threonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.

Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.

Valine is one of the essential amino acids (meaning your body can't make it on its own and has to get it from food).

In skincare, it's usually synthetically-made or pulled from plant proteins like soy.

It's one of the small building blocks that make up your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the built-in system that helps skin hold onto water. So its main job in a formula is to give the skin gentle hydration and help it feel more comfortable.

Typical amounts are very tiny: roughly 0.00004%-0.5% in leave on products and up to 1% in rinse-off ones.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has looked at this ingredient and found no evidence of it being a skin irritant or allergen at cosmetic levels.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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