MediCube AGE-R Collagen Booster Gel Serum Versus AHC Beauty Youth Lasting Real Eye Cream For Face

MediCube AGE-R Collagen Booster Gel Serum Versus AHC Beauty Youth Lasting Real Eye Cream For Face

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

This eye moisturizer is formulated around Calendula Officinalis Extract and Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate to hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Glycereth-26

Glycerin

Niacinamide

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyglycerin-3

Methyl Gluceth-20

Methyl Gluceth-10

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Allantoin

C12-14 Pareth-12

Soluble Elastin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Parfum

Adenosine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Butylene Glycol

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Soluble Collagen

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Phosphatidylcholine

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium DNA

Atelocollagen

Desamido Collagen

Ceramide NP

Prunella Vulgaris Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Collagen

Collagen Amino Acids

Glycine

Serine

Procollagen

Glutamic Acid

Lysine

Alanine

Threonine

Proline

Arginine

Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglycerin-3, Methyl Gluceth-20, Methyl Gluceth-10, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Allantoin, C12-14 Pareth-12, Soluble Elastin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Butylene Glycol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Soluble Collagen, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Phosphatidylcholine, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium DNA, Atelocollagen, Desamido Collagen, Ceramide NP, Prunella Vulgaris Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Collagen, Collagen Amino Acids, Glycine, Serine, Procollagen, Glutamic Acid, Lysine, Alanine, Threonine, Proline, Arginine

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Dipropylene Glycol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cetyl Alcohol

Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Malt Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Collagen Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Pancratium Maritimum Extract

Triticum Aestivum Peptide

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Oryza Sativa Germ Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Sh-Polypeptide-19

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

Polyacrylate-13

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Glyceryl Stearate

Behenyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Panthenol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Micrococcus Lysate

Glycosyl Trehalose

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Xanthan Gum

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Raffinose

Cholesterol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Disodium EDTA

Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Polyquaternium-51

Sodium Laurate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Lauric Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Propanediol

Folic Acid

Carnosine

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Glycolipids

Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Lactobacillus Ferment

Maltodextrin

Squalane

Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Tetrahydropiperine

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Aspartic Acid

Mannitol

Leucine

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Xylitylglucoside

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Valine

Anhydroxylitol

Isoleucine

Lactobacillus Extracellular Vesicles

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate

Histidine

Xylitol

Methionine

Cysteine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Potassium Hyaluronate

Pvp

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Gluconolactone

Glycine Soja Peptide

Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol

Sorbitan Laurate

Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate

Saccharomyces Polypeptides

Glucose

Alcohol Denat.

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Avena Sativa Peptide

Retinal

Menadione

Silica

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Glycine Max Polypeptide

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Lactic Acid

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Ceteth-3

Ceteth-5

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Tocopherol

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sucrose Distearate

Rutin

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Sodium Phosphate

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Dipotassium Phosphate

Calcium Gluconate

Nonapeptide-1

Dipeptide-1

Dipeptide-2

Dipeptide-4

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Oligopeptide-6

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-2

Tripeptide-3

Pentapeptide-3

Hexapeptide-2

Hexapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Fullerenes

Biotin

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Thiamine Hcl

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Pyridoxine

Cyanocobalamin

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Polysorbate 20

PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Pentylene Glycol

Calendula Officinalis Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetyl Alcohol, Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Methylpropanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Malt Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Collagen Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Triticum Aestivum Peptide, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Soluble Collagen, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sh-Polypeptide-19, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Polyacrylate-13, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Micrococcus Lysate, Glycosyl Trehalose, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Raffinose, Cholesterol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Ceramide NP, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Laurate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Lauric Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Soluble Elastin, Propanediol, Folic Acid, Carnosine, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Glycolipids, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Glycine, Lactobacillus Ferment, Maltodextrin, Squalane, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Collagen, Collagen Amino Acids, Tetrahydropiperine, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Aspartic Acid, Mannitol, Leucine, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Alanine, Lysine, Xylitylglucoside, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Anhydroxylitol, Isoleucine, Lactobacillus Extracellular Vesicles, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Histidine, Xylitol, Methionine, Cysteine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Potassium Hyaluronate, Pvp, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hyaluronic Acid, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Gluconolactone, Glycine Soja Peptide, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Saccharomyces Polypeptides, Glucose, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Alcohol Denat., Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Avena Sativa Peptide, Retinal, Menadione, Silica, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lactic Acid, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Tocopherol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sucrose Distearate, Atelocollagen, Rutin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Phosphate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Dipotassium Phosphate, Calcium Gluconate, Nonapeptide-1, Dipeptide-1, Dipeptide-2, Dipeptide-4, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Oligopeptide-6, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Tripeptide-3, Pentapeptide-3, Hexapeptide-2, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Fullerenes, Biotin, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Thiamine Hcl, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pyridoxine, Cyanocobalamin, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 20, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Parfum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Pentylene Glycol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Atelocollagen can help to reduce the effects of aging.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Collagen is a big structural protein that your body uses to keep skin firm and bouncy. Despite the marketing, topically applied collagen doesn't "refill" the collagen in your skin.

The molecule is too big to pass through your skin barrier so intact Collagen physically can't get past the surface.

What it actually does in your skincare is work as a humectant and film-former: it binds water, lays down a light moisturizing film, and reduces water loss from the surface. This helps make skin feel smoother and temporarily plumper.

This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics with clinical studies showing no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity. It's typically used at low concentrations (often a fraction of a percent up to a few percent).

Collagen will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.

Learn more about hydrolyzed collagen or soluble collagen.

Collagen amino acids are naturally found in the outermost layer of your skin.Your body uses amino acids to build collagen and elastin.

Due to their tiny size, amino acids are able to be absorbed into the skin. They mostly play a role in keeping your skin hydrated and reinforcing your NMF (natural moisturizing factors).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glutamic Acid is an amino acid that is found in all living organisms. Our bodies use this to help nerve cells in the brain communicate with other cells.

In cosmetics, glutamic acid is a famous humectant. It draws water from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated (like hyaluronic acid).

An in-vitro study from 2024 found glutamic acid to play a role in inhibiting inflammation and thus a potential skin-soothing ingredient.

Other studies show it to be have potential wound healing, skin barrier repair, and hair growth properties.

Glutamic acid has poor solubility in water and other solvents.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

This ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.

You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.

According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:

One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.

Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.

This ingredient is water-soluble.

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate is a positively charged version of hyaluronic acid.

This small change does a lot in a formula:

Regular hyaluronic acid carries a negative charge and so does the surface of your skin. This means the two repel each other and hyaluronic acid can be washed away easily. The positive charge here does the opposite: it makes the ingredient cling to your skin (also called "substantivity") so it keeps hydrating even in rinse-off products where it lays down a light, moisture-holding film.

The research backs this up too; a 2025 clinical study on a shower gel containing 0.1% positively charged hyaluronic acid increased skin hydration by 6.6% versus the baseline and 11.1% versus the placebo. This was measured 6 hours after 1 minute of contact and rinse, and on volunteers with very dry skin.

The same team's lab work showed it adhered to skin far better than unmodified hyaluronic acid (+107% vs. low molecular weight, +23% versus high molecular weight). They also found it increased two proteins tied to skin hydration, aquaporin-3 by 16% and filaggrin by 35%.

A separate 2024 study reached a similar conclusion and credited the hydrating benefits to its film-forming properties.

Both studies used the ingredient at 0.1% which also matches how much it usually shows up in products (at fractions of a percent).

One honesty note worth keeping in mind: the published research comes from the company that manufactures the ingredient so independent data would strengthen the picture. However, the results are consistent and the mechanism makes sense.

As a Hyaluronic Acid derivative, it has a well-tolerated profile and suits most skin types.

Lysine is an essential amino acid (your body cannot make it on its own). It has skin conditioning properties and one of the key players in collagen synthesis.

When your body creates collagen, lysine is basically the glue that holds everything together. It helps collagen fibers lock into each other and stay strong, with vitamin C being its trusty sidekick. Without enough lysine, this glue gets flimsy and less firm, resulting in less bouncy skin.

In skincare, lysine is mostly there to help keep your skin moisturized. It carries water through your skin's layers so everything stays plump.

So will putting lysine on your face create bouncier skin?

It's hard to say; most of the exciting collagen research on lysine comes from oral supplements or lab studies on mice. Further research is needed to truly understand what role topical lysine plays in skincare and your skin.

However, there's no harm in adding lysine to your routine as a supportive and hydrating ingredient.

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Proline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.

It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.

Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.

Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.

Serine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.

Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.

Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.

Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.

Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.

A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.

A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.

More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.

Soluble collagen is a large, water-loving protein typically extracted from cattle hides or marine sources like fish skin.

In cosmetics, it works purely as a humectant and film-former.

Despite the marketing that surrounds the word "collagen", its molecule is far too large to penetrate skin so it can't rebuild the collagen in your dermis.

Instead, it sits on the surface and binds water to help reduce transepidermal water loss and leave skin feeling soft, plump, and temporarily tightened.

Suppliers commonly recommend using it around 3-6% though industry data shows concentrations are often much lower (down to a fraction of a percent).

This ingredient has been found safe to use in cosmetics with no reported irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

We don't have a description for Soluble Elastin yet.

Threonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.

Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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