MediCube Collagen Jelly Cream Versus Mary & May Collagen Peptide Vital Mask

MediCube Collagen Jelly Cream Versus Mary & May Collagen Peptide Vital Mask

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging sheet mask is formulated around Adenosine and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Dipropylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Methylpropanediol

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

Ethoxydiglycol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Niacinamide

Trehalose

1,2-Hexanediol

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Collagen

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Cynanchum Atratum Extract

Althaea Rosea Flower Extract

Soluble Collagen

Allium Sativum Bulb Extract

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Extract

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract

Salmon Egg Extract

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract

Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Wine Extract

Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate

Tromethamine

Glucose

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Fructooligosaccharides

Fructose

Adenosine

Sodium Phytate

Cyanocobalamin

Tocopherol

Pullulan

Glycerin

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Squalane

Soluble Proteoglycan

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Sodium DNA

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Parfum

Water, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Ethoxydiglycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Niacinamide, Trehalose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Soluble Collagen, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Salmon Egg Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Wine Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Tromethamine, Glucose, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Cyanocobalamin, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Soluble Proteoglycan, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Sodium DNA, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Parfum

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Arginine

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Allantoin

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Caprylyl Glycol

Collagen Extract

Disodium EDTA

Copper Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-11

Hexapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Arginine, Carbomer, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Allantoin, Adenosine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Collagen Extract, Soluble Collagen, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Soluble collagen is a large, water-loving protein typically extracted from cattle hides or marine sources like fish skin.

In cosmetics, it works purely as a humectant and film-former.

Despite the marketing that surrounds the word "collagen", its molecule is far too large to penetrate skin so it can't rebuild the collagen in your dermis.

Instead, it sits on the surface and binds water to help reduce transepidermal water loss and leave skin feeling soft, plump, and temporarily tightened.

Suppliers commonly recommend using it around 3-6% though industry data shows concentrations are often much lower (down to a fraction of a percent).

This ingredient has been found safe to use in cosmetics with no reported irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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