Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10 Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Super Serum Elixir

Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10 Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Super Serum Elixir

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinal and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Isododecane

Cetearyl Olivate

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Cetearyl Alcohol

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Sorbitan Olivate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Titanium Dioxide

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Cyclodextrin

Squalane

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Alumina

Isostearic Acid

Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Stearic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Retinal

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Sodium Polyaspartate

Climbazole

Disodium EDTA

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Decylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

BHT

Coumarin

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Isododecane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Titanium Dioxide, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Cyclodextrin, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Alumina, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Retinal, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Sodium Polyaspartate, Climbazole, Disodium EDTA, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Decylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, BHT, Coumarin

Isononyl Isononanoate

Camelina Sativa Seed Oil

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Propanediol

Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Parfum

Sorbitan Stearate

Chlorphenesin

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Tocopherol

Anogeissus Leiocarpa Bark Extract

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Linalool

Citronellol

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil

Phytosterols

Limonene

Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract

Hydroxycitronellal

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Geraniol

Benzyl Alcohol

Eugenol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Isononyl Isononanoate, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Water, Propanediol, Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Glycerin, Parfum, Sorbitan Stearate, Chlorphenesin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Tocopherol, Anogeissus Leiocarpa Bark Extract, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, Citronellol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil, Phytosterols, Limonene, Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract, Hydroxycitronellal, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Geraniol, Benzyl Alcohol, Eugenol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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