Pacifica Vegan Collagen Overnight Recovery Cream Versus Mario Badescu Elasto-Collagen Night Cream

Pacifica Vegan Collagen Overnight Recovery Cream Versus Mario Badescu Elasto-Collagen Night Cream

This night moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil to hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Glycerin

Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1

Cetyl Esters

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Diheptyl Succinate

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Extract

Jasminum Officinale Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Arnica Montana Extract

Allantoin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Parfum

Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1, Cetyl Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Extract, Jasminum Officinale Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Arnica Montana Extract, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum

Arachis Hypogaea Oil

Olus Oil

Petrolatum

Paraffinum Liquidum

Cera Alba

Zea Mays Oil

Tridecyl Stearate

C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters

Sodium Borate

Soluble Collagen

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Propylene Glycol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Propylparaben

Sodium Benzoate

Diazolidinyl Urea

Methylparaben

Tocopherol

Retinyl Palmitate

Benzyl Alcohol

Hexyl Cinnamal

Hydroxycitronellal

Benzyl Benzoate

Benzyl Salicylate

Linalool

Citronellol

Eugenol

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Chloride

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

CI 19140

CI 42090

Water, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Olus Oil, Glycerin, Petrolatum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Esters, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Alba, Zea Mays Oil, Tridecyl Stearate, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Sodium Borate, Soluble Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Propylparaben, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Tocopherol, Retinyl Palmitate, Benzyl Alcohol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Citronellol, Eugenol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Chloride, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, CI 19140, CI 42090

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetyl Esters is an emollient with an interesting backstory: it's a synthetic wax originally designed to be a copy of spermaceti, a waxy material that used to be harvested from whales.

This ingredient delivers the same "velvety" feel without anything animal-derived (usually made from coconut or palm-sourced fatty alcohols/acids).

Chemically, it's a blend of esters from 14-18 fatty acids and alcohols that is a solid at room temperature but melts on contact with skin. It helps soften and smooth the skin while improving the feel and spread of products.

Typical use concentrations range from 1-10% (most commonly 2-5%).

The CIR Expert Panel has concluded it's safe as used and has shown no skin irritation in available studies.

Because it's a blend of fatty acid esters in the chain-length range that Malassezia can feed on, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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