SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Brightening Toner Versus MEDI-PEEL Aesthe Derma Red Marine Collagen Toner

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Brightening Toner Versus MEDI-PEEL Aesthe Derma Red Marine Collagen Toner

This brightening toner is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Water

Betaine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract

Xylitol

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate

Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Adenosine

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Iris Florentina Root Extract

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Sodium Phytate

Methylpropanediol

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polyglutamic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ceramide NP

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Water, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Xylitol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Adenosine, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Phytate, Methylpropanediol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglutamic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Dipropylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Lactobacillus Ferment

Xylitylglucoside

Anhydroxylitol

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Dipeptide-2

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Cimicifuga Dahurica Root Extract

Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract

Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Angelica Gigas Root Extract

Morus Alba Bark Extract

Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract

Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Castanea Crenata Shell Extract

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract

Lysine

Histidine

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

Threonine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Proline

Glycine

Alanine

Valine

Methionine

Isoleucine

Leucine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Cysteine

Panthenol

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Disodium EDTA

Caramel

Hydroxyacetophenone

Caprylyl Glycol

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tromethamine

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Butylene Glycol, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cimicifuga Dahurica Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Lysine, Histidine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Threonine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Proline, Glycine, Alanine, Valine, Methionine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Cysteine, Adenosine, Panthenol, Ceramide NP, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Betaine, Caramel, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tromethamine

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

We don't have a description for Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract yet.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient comes from the English Ivy, a climbing evergreen plant. The extract is rich in compounds that give it antioxidant, skin conditioning, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Two of the compounds, Alpha-Hederin and Hederasaponin-C, showed strong inhibition of shown to be effective at protecting against oxidative damage as well as synthetic antioxidants like butylated hydroxyanisole and BHT.

We don't have a description for Iris Florentina Root Extract yet.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate is a nonionic emulsifier and skin conditioner made from Polyglycerin-10 and Myristic Acid.

As a skin conditioning agent, this ingredient leaves skin feeling soft without a greasy finish. As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions.

You'll likely see this ingredient in "clean" formulations because it's considered a natural alternative to PEGs.

Patch testing at concentration 0.1-1% showed no reactions and this ingredient is considered to be well-tolerated across skin types.

Due to its myristic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

This ingredient comes from the common pear and has skin conditioning/skin protecting properties. Pears are rich in bioactive phenolic compounds, with the most notable ones being Arbutin, Chlorogenic Acid, and Catechin.

A small in-vivo study with 13 volunteers found using a 5% pear extract gel over 12 weeks significantly improved skin moisture and elasticity, and decreased melanin and sebum levels compared to placebo.

In phytochemical analysis, this extract has also demonstrated anti-tyrosinase activity which further supports its brightening properties.

Just so you know, individuals with birch pollen allergy should be careful and patch test this ingredient as pears belong to the same family. But topical use of this ingredient is generally well-tolerated.

Rosa Damascena Flower Water is the water-based byproduct of steam-distilling damask rose petals. It has skin conditioning, masking, and skin protecting properties.

Research shows that Rosa damascena is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds like gallic acid that contribute to its antioxidant activity.

In vitro studies have shown that Rosa damascena can scavenge free radicals and reduce melanin overproduction. Research has also found this extract offers some degree of UV absorption but this should not replace your sunscreen.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xylitol is a humectant and prebiotic. It can help with dry skin.

In studies, xylitol has been shown to improve dry skin. It decreased transepidermal water loss, or when water passes through the skin and evaporates. Xylitol also showed to help improve the biomechanical properties of the skin barrier.

The prebiotic property of xylitol may also help reinforce our skin's natural microbiome. Having a healthy microbiome prevents infection by bad bacteria and helps with hydration.

As a humectant, Xylitol helps draw moisture from both the air and from deeper skin layers. This helps keep skin hydrated.

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol and commonly used as a sugar substitute. It is naturally occurring in plants such as strawberries and pumpkin.

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