Sunday Riley Blue Moon Clean Rinse Cleansing Balm Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Rose Cleansing Balm

Sunday Riley Blue Moon Clean Rinse Cleansing Balm Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Rose Cleansing Balm

This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sucrose Laurate

Jojoba Esters

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Glycerin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Polyglycerin-3

Glyceryl Behenate

C10-18 Triglycerides

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

PEG-8 Beeswax

Cetyl Alcohol

Ceteth-20

Steareth-20

Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Squalene

Citrus Tangerina Peel

Citrus Sinensis Peel Oil Expressed

Tanacetum Annuum Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters

Chlorphenesin

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sucrose Laurate, Jojoba Esters, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Glyceryl Behenate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, PEG-8 Beeswax, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Squalene, Citrus Tangerina Peel, Citrus Sinensis Peel Oil Expressed, Tanacetum Annuum Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Stearate

Sambucus Nigra Oil

PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

Parfum

Silica

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax

Lecithin

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Citronellol

Geraniol

Rosa Multiflora Flower Wax

Tocopherol

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Benzyl Salicylate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Rose Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Rosa Damascena Extract

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-8 Beeswax, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sambucus Nigra Oil, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Parfum, Silica, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax, Glycerin, Lecithin, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Citronellol, Geraniol, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Rosa Multiflora Flower Wax, Tocopherol, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Benzyl Salicylate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rose Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Rosa Damascena Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Also known as mimosa wax, this ingredient is a plant-derived wax from the flowers of the Acacia decurrens tree.

The wax has a profile that gives it skin benefits, including lipids that offer a skin conditioning effect. In a formula, it forms a breathable film on the skin's surface that reduces water loss, lock in moisture, and soften the skin.

One manufacturer study using a trade blend (jojoba esters + sunflower seed wax + this ingredient + polyglycerin 3) found it to perform equal to or better than lanolin in skin hydration.

On its own, typical usage concentrations run from 0.5-10% with 1-5% the most common in creams and up to 10% in lip balms.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

PEG-8 Beeswax isn't fungal acne safe.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

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