Collagen & Peptide NutritionNutrition and collagen guides

Nutrition guide

Sungboon Editor Deep Collagen Hyalu-B5 Hydrating Mask Versus Sungboon Editor Deep Collagen Anti-Wrinkle Lifting Mask

Sungboon Editor Deep Collagen Hyalu-B5 Hydrating Mask Versus Sungboon Editor Deep Collagen Anti-Wrinkle Lifting Mask This hydrating overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging s

Sungboon Editor Deep Collagen Hyalu-B5 Hydrating Mask Versus Sungboon Editor Deep Collagen Anti-Wrinkle Lifting Mask

This hydrating overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging sheet mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Methylpropanediol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Niacinamide

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ceratonia Siliqua Gum

Chondrus Crispus Powder

Chondrus Crispus

Panthenol

Betaine

Cellulose Gum

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Collagen

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Potassium Chloride

Sodium Polyacrylate

Polysorbate 60

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Sucrose

Hydroxyacetophenone

Adenosine

Caprylyl Glycol

Allantoin

Trideceth-6

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Glyceryl Glucoside

Pantolactone

C11-13 Isoparaffin

Butylene Glycol

Silica

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Polyquaternium-51

Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer

Disodium EDTA

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Chondrus Crispus, Panthenol, Betaine, Cellulose Gum, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Collagen, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Potassium Chloride, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polysorbate 60, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Sucrose, Hydroxyacetophenone, Adenosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Trideceth-6, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Glyceryl Glucoside, Pantolactone, C11-13 Isoparaffin, Butylene Glycol, Silica, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polyquaternium-51, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Disodium EDTA

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract

Mentha Viridis Leaf Extract

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract

Rubus Suavissimus Leaf Extract

Rose Extract

Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Crataegus Cuneata Fruit Extract

Ribes Nigrum Bud Cera

Xylitylglucoside

Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol

Glucose

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Ceramide AP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide NP

Ceramide EOP

Cholesterol

Phytosphingosine

Propanediol

Benzyl Glycol

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Hexapeptide-9

Water, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Collagen, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Betaine, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Potassium Chloride, Sucrose, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Panthenol, Pantolactone, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-6, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polysorbate 60, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Mentha Viridis Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Rubus Suavissimus Leaf Extract, Rose Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Crataegus Cuneata Fruit Extract, Ribes Nigrum Bud Cera, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Glucose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Glyceryl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Propanediol, Benzyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-9

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cellulose Gum is a water-soluble polymer that comes from cellulose. It is used to change the texture of a product and to help stabilize emulsions.

As an emulsifier, cellulose gum specifically thicken the texture of water-based products.

This ingredient is considered hypoallergenic and non-toxic. Cellulose Gum can be found in cosmetics, food, and other household goods such as paper products.

Ceratonia Siliqua Gum is extracted from the seeds of the carob tree. You might know this ingredient as Carob Gum or Locust Bean Gum. It is used to stabilize other ingredients and improve the texture of products.

Carob gum is made up of long-chain polysaccharides. This makes it a natural thickener.

Yes! This ingredient comes from the seeds of a tree. The name 'Locust Bean Gum' can be misleading.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Chondrus Crispus Powder is just Irish moss, a red seaweed harvested, dried, and ground into a fine powder. Because it's the whole plant rather than a liquid extract, it has an official INCI job as an "abrasive".

This ingredient also happens to be loaded with carrageenan, a sugar-based polysaccharide, that allows it to double as a thickener and light hydrator.

Real world concentration is low; industry surveys report a maximum of 0.1% across 63 leave-on products.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reviewed it in 2021 and concluded it's safe at current use levels and every human sensitization study on it came back negative.

Allergy risk is very low with no documented pattern of reactions but anyone with a known seaweed or iodine sensitivity may want to patch test since dried Chondrus crispus does carry a small amount of natural iodine.

Collagen is a big structural protein that your body uses to keep skin firm and bouncy. Despite the marketing, topically applied collagen doesn't "refill" the collagen in your skin.

The molecule is too big to pass through your skin barrier so intact Collagen physically can't get past the surface.

What it actually does in your skincare is work as a humectant and film-former: it binds water, lays down a light moisturizing film, and reduces water loss from the surface. This helps make skin feel smoother and temporarily plumper.

This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics with clinical studies showing no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity. It's typically used at low concentrations (often a fraction of a percent up to a few percent).

Collagen will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.

Learn more about hydrolyzed collagen or soluble collagen.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Glucoside is made from glycerol and glucose.

It is a humectant. Humectants help hydrate your skin by drawing moisture to it from the air.

Some foods that contain glyceryl glucoside include sake, miso, and wines.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Hydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic emollient. It forms a non-occlusive film on the skin's surface to provide a silky feel without being greasy.

In vivo studies in volunteers with atopic and dry skin showed no irritation or intolerance. The volunteers also saw a positive effect in dryness, scaling, and roughness after 28 days of use.

Concentrations up to 100% in guinea pig tests found it to be non-sensitizing and completely safe for use in cosmetics.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Pantolactone is a synthetically created humectant.

As a humectant, Pantolactone helps draw moisture to the skin. It can help add hydration to your skin.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

We don't have a description for Potassium Chloride yet.

Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.

This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Sucrose is a natural sugar found in fruits, vegetables, and nuts. It is the main constituent of white sugar.

In skincare, sucrose is a humectant and can be a mild exfoliant.

Sucrose is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts water. This makes it an effective humectant and helps hydrate the skin.

Studies show sugars may worsen acne-prone skin due to it disrupting the skin's natural biome. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

In some products such as body scrubs, sucrose is used as an gentle exfoliant.

The term 'sucrose' comes from the french word for sugar, 'sucre'.

We don't have a description for Trideceth-6 yet.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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SUPPLEMENTAL FIELD FILE

Notes to carry forward.

Source-derived references linked through this guide’s public topic markers.

01
REFERENCE CARDS

Ingredients, lists & structured values

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PROVISION SHELF

Products & side-by-side records