Superdrug Vitamin C Booster Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Renewal Serum

Superdrug Vitamin C Booster Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Renewal Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycereth-26

Propylene Glycol

Polysorbate 60

Dimethicone

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Glycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Parfum

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Alcohol Denat.

Disodium EDTA

Polyacrylamide

Sodium Hydroxide

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Benzophenone-4

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Laureth-7

Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

CI 15985

Water, Glycereth-26, Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Dimethicone, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Alcohol Denat., Disodium EDTA, Polyacrylamide, Sodium Hydroxide, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Benzophenone-4, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, CI 15985

Pentylene Glycol

Lysine Aspartate

Polysorbate 20

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Cichorium Intybus Leaf Extract

Hexylene Glycol

Maris Aqua

Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract

Sorbitan Isostearate

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Medicago Sativa Extract

T-Butyl Alcohol

Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Collagen Amino Acids

Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract

Linalool

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Citronellol

Geraniol

Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Lysine Aspartate, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Cichorium Intybus Leaf Extract, Hexylene Glycol, Maris Aqua, Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Phenoxyethanol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Collagen Amino Acids, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Linalool, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Sodium Benzoate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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