The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% In Vitamin F Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Vitamin C Serum

The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% In Vitamin F Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Vitamin C Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Coconut Alkanes

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Ethyl Linoleate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract

Squalane

Coconut Alkanes, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ethyl Linoleate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Squalane

Water

Glycerin

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Niacinamide

Glycereth-7 Triacetate

Lactic Acid

Sd Alcohol 40-B

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Ascorbic Acid

Collagen Amino Acids

Superoxide Dismutase

Glycine

Carnitine Hcl

Ubiquinone

Hexylresorcinol

Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Isoquercetin

Mandelic Acid

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Phytic Acid

Citric Acid

Tetrasodium EDTA

Sodium Citrate

Butylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Polysorbate 20

T-Butyl Alcohol

Sodium Hydroxide

Polysorbate 80

Denatonium Benzoate

Benzyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Lactic Acid, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ascorbic Acid, Collagen Amino Acids, Superoxide Dismutase, Glycine, Carnitine Hcl, Ubiquinone, Hexylresorcinol, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Isoquercetin, Mandelic Acid, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, T-Butyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 80, Denatonium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.

THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).

Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.

Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.

Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.

A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).

While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.

THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

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