The Skin House Green Tea Collagen Cream Versus Proactiv Complexion Perfecting Hydrator
The Skin House Green Tea Collagen Cream Versus Proactiv Complexion Perfecting Hydrator This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This acne moisturizer is formul
The Skin House Green Tea Collagen Cream Versus Proactiv Complexion Perfecting Hydrator
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This acne moisturizer is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to clear breakouts and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Squalane
Cyclomethicone
Paraffinum Liquidum
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Dimethicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetearyl Alcohol
Stearic Acid
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Betaine
Methyl Gluceth-20
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Beeswax
Carbomer
Sorbitan Stearate
Sodium Polyacrylate
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Laureth-7
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Linoleic Acid
Ceramide NP
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Arginine
Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Panthenol
Allantoin
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Panax Ginseng Cell Culture Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Callus Culture Extract
Aloe Vera Callus Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Buddleja Davidii Extract
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Aralia Cordata Extract
Saururus Chinensis Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Elsholtzia Splendens Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
CI 19140
CI 15985
Parfum
Linalool
Limonene
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Squalane, Cyclomethicone, Paraffinum Liquidum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Betaine, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Beeswax, Carbomer, Sorbitan Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Linoleic Acid, Ceramide NP, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Arginine, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Allantoin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Panax Ginseng Cell Culture Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Callus Culture Extract, Aloe Vera Callus Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Aralia Cordata Extract, Saururus Chinensis Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Elsholtzia Splendens Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 19140, CI 15985, Parfum, Linalool, Limonene
Salicylic Acid 0.5%
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract
Morus Alba Root Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
Kojic Acid
Zinc Gluconate
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Bisabolol
Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
C12-15 Alkyl Lactate
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
PPG-5-Laureth-5
Polyquaternium-11
Ceteareth-20
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Hexylene Glycol
PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate
Sodium Hydroxide
Salicylic Acid 0.5%, Water, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Kojic Acid, Zinc Gluconate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Squalane, Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, C12-15 Alkyl Lactate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, PPG-5-Laureth-5, Polyquaternium-11, Ceteareth-20, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Polysorbate 60, Hexylene Glycol, PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.
This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!