Versed Photos, Please Brightening Tightening Mask Versus Dirty Works Beauty Collagen On Call Overnight Facial Lift
Versed Photos, Please Brightening Tightening Mask Versus Dirty Works Beauty Collagen On Call Overnight Facial Lift This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Citric Acid for a rinse-off oil-control boost. This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around
Versed Photos, Please Brightening Tightening Mask Versus Dirty Works Beauty Collagen On Call Overnight Facial Lift
This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Citric Acid for a rinse-off oil-control boost.
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Kaolin
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Propylene Glycol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Polysorbate 20
Sorbitan Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Bentonite
Citric Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
1,2-Hexanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Xanthan Gum
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Glycerin
CI 77891
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Kaolin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Propylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Bentonite, Citric Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glycerin, CI 77891, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Pentaerythrityl Distearate
Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil
Phenethyl Alcohol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Caprylyl Glycol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Parfum
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Butylene Glycol
Panthenol
Hydrolyzed Algin
Sodium Hydroxide
Maris Aqua
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Carbomer
Tetrapeptide-21
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Hexapeptide-9
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Benzyl Salicylate
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Water, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Parfum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Algin, Sodium Hydroxide, Maris Aqua, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Carbomer, Tetrapeptide-21, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.