Avène XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Balm Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

Avène XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Balm Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Detailed comparison of Avène XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Balm versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Oenothera Biennis Oil and Aquaphilus Dolomiae Extract to strengthen the skin barrier. Water Paraffinum Liquidum Glycerin Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride PEG-12 Oenothera Biennis Oil Glyceryl Stearate PEG-100 Stearate Polyacrylate-13 Aquaphilus Dolomiae Extract Arginine Citric Acid Evening Primrose Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters Glycine Polyisobutene Polysorbate 20 Sodium Acetate Sorbitan Isostearate Tocopherol Water, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-12, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyacrylate-13, Aquaphilus Dolomiae Extract, Arginine, Citric Acid, Evening Primrose Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Glycine, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Acetate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol Glyceryl Stearate Se Isononyl Isononanoate Dicaprylyl Carbonate Dimethicone Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Chlorella Vulgaris Extract Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract Porphyridium Cruentum Extract Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract Phenoxyethanol Stearic Acid Tocopheryl Acetate Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Cetyl Alcohol Xanthan Gum Glyceryl Polyacrylate Parfum Chlorphenesin Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer Sodium Dehydroacetate Disodium EDTA Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde Butylphenyl Methylpropional Linalool Citronellol Potassium Sorbate Sodium Benzoate Citrus Limon Peel Oil Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil Limonene Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Limonene These ingredients are found in both products. Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel. While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns. Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source. This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out. This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%. Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes. Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath. However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products. Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH. In skincare formulas, citric acid can: While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants. Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations. Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger. However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure. Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant