Vitaskin Vitamin C collagen boosting serum

Vitaskin Vitamin C collagen boosting serum Vitaskin Vitamin C collagen boosting serum ingredients explained: Kiwi Seed Oil, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Zara Mays Starch, Tocopherol, Ci 40800 Show all ingredients by function Kiwi Seed Oil emollient Propanediol solvent, moisturizer/​humectant Sodium Hyaluronate skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 goodie Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate antioxidant, anti-acne Citric Acid buffering Sodium Benzoate preservative Potassium Sorbate Zara Mays Starch Tocopherol antioxidant 0-3, 0-3 Ci 40800 colorant We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Expand to read more In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate and cheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid (including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). The sodium salt form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. If you do not know what the big fuss about vitamin C is, you are missing out and you have to click here and read all the geeky details about it. Pure vitamin C (aka ascorbic acid, AA) is great and all, but its lack of stability is a big challenge for the cosmetics industry. One solution is to create stable derivatives that can be absorbed into the skin, convert there to AA and do all the magic AA is proven to do (which is being an antioxidant, a collagen booster, and a skin brightener). SAP (the vit C derivative, not the enterprise software, obvs) is a promising derivative that has great stability up to pH 7. The challenge with it though is skin penetration. Unfortunately, it seems to be limited, or to quote a great article from the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology "topically applied ascorbyl phosphate what‑it‑does solvent | moisturizer/humectant skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant irritancy, com. antioxidant | anti-acne

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