AXIS - Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum Versus Esfolio Eye Cream
AXIS - Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum Versus Esfolio Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium
AXIS - Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum Versus Esfolio Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylpropanediol
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Adenosine
Collagen
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Hexapeptide-9
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Prunus Mume Fruit Extract
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Ceramide NP
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Butylene Glycol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
C13-14 Alkane
Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer
C15-23 Alkane
Ethylhexylglycerin
Decyl Glucoside
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Tocopherol
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Adenosine, Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C13-14 Alkane, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, C15-23 Alkane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Decyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Tocopherol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Glucoside
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Artemisia Capillaris Leaf Extract
Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Morus Alba Fruit Extract
Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract
Cordyceps Sinensis Extract
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Vigna Radiata Seed Extract
Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
Angelica Gigas Root Extract
Asparagus Cochinchinensis Extract
Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Prunus Mume Flower Extract
Arctium Lappa Root Extract
Morus Alba Bark Extract
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Extract
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Cnidium Officinale Root Extract
Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Sorbitan Olivate
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Carbomer
Arginine
Cetearyl Alcohol
Xanthan Gum
Propanediol
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 20
Benzyl Glycol
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Raspberry Ketone
Disodium EDTA
Chlorphenesin
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Methylpropanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Leaf Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract, Cordyceps Sinensis Extract, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Asparagus Cochinchinensis Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Prunus Mume Flower Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Adenosine, Sorbitan Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Carbomer, Arginine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Propanediol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 20, Benzyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Raspberry Ketone, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract comes from the fruit known as the fig. Figs are rich in antioxidants and helps hydrate the skin.
Figs also contain fatty acids and Vitamins A, B1, and B2.
As a humectant, figs are able to draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Prunus Mume extract comes from the Asian plum. This plum is AKA 'plum blossom'. Plum blossom has hydrating and antibacterial properties.
Plum Blossoms are rich in nutrients, including Vitamin A, Vitamin B, and Vitamin C.
A study from 2021 found this ingredient to inhibit melanin production. An animal study found plum blossom to help increase collagen production.
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.
Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.
Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!