Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream SPF 30 Versus Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protect 50+ PA++++

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream SPF 30 Versus Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protect 50+ PA++++

This day moisturizer is formulated around Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract to calm irritation and reduce redness.

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range, though its SPF isn't confirmed on file yet.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Isononyl Isononanoate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Dimethicone

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Phenoxyethanol

Polyacrylate-13

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Octocrylene

Stearic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Coco-Caprylate

Xanthan Gum

Chlorphenesin

Polyisobutene

Parfum

Disodium EDTA

Lecithin

Tocopherol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Citric Acid

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Benzyl Benzoate

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

Citronellol

Geraniol

Hydroxycitronellal

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Limonene

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Octocrylene, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate, Xanthan Gum, Chlorphenesin, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Citric Acid, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Benzyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Limonene, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Dibutyl Adipate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Diisopropyl Adipate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Isododecane

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Silica

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Squalane

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Marrubium Vulgare Extract

Arginine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Carnosine

Coco-Glucoside

Benzoic Acid

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Plankton Extract

Dehydroacetic Acid

Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Linalool

Citral

Water, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diisopropyl Adipate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Isododecane, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Silica, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Arginine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Carnosine, Disodium EDTA, Coco-Glucoside, Citric Acid, Benzoic Acid, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Plankton Extract, Dehydroacetic Acid, Parfum, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Limonene, Linalool, Citral

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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