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Nutrition guide

Mary & May Idebenone Blackberry Intense Cream Versus Azure Vitamin C & Collagen Moisturizing Day Cream

Mary & May Idebenone Blackberry Intense Cream Versus Azure Vitamin C & Collagen Moisturizing Day Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging day moist

Mary & May Idebenone Blackberry Intense Cream Versus Azure Vitamin C & Collagen Moisturizing Day Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Isododecane

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Cetearyl Olivate

Panthenol

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Sorbitan Olivate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Carbomer

Arginine

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Adenosine

Pentylene Glycol

Trideceth-6

Disodium EDTA

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Stearic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Isododecane, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Olivate, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Arginine, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Adenosine, Pentylene Glycol, Trideceth-6, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Stearic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP

Propylene Glycol

Synthetic Jojoba Oil

Collagen

Ascorbic Acid

Butyrospermum Parkii Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Xanthan Gum

Tocopherol

Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Propylene Glycol, Synthetic Jojoba Oil, Collagen, Ascorbic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

In cosmetics, it plays many roles:

One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.

For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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SUPPLEMENTAL FIELD FILE

Notes to carry forward.

Source-derived references linked through this guide’s public topic markers.

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REFERENCE CARDS

Ingredients, lists & structured values

INGREDIENT LIST

Ingredients Explained

  • These ingredients are found in both products.
  • Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  • 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
  • Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
  • In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
  • The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
  • A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
  • Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
  • Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
  • Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  • Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  • Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  • Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
  • Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
  • However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
  • Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
  • In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
  • While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
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PROVISION SHELF

Products & side-by-side records